Don’t Hike Empty-Handed

Hiking season is here. Got trekking poles? If not, buy them now. They’ll help ensure you cover more ground—more efficiently and comfortably—every precious day you spend hiking this summer. And they’ll add years to your hiking life by significantly reducing impact to your joints.

In 1994, when Kath and I began working on Don’t Waste Your Time in the North Cascades, The Opinionated Hiking Guide (now titled Hiking From Here to WOW: North Cascades), we hiked without poles every day for a month. We both developed knee pain. The next summer we used Leki trekking poles every day for three months and our knees were never strained. We felt like four-legged animals. We were more sure-footed. Our speed and endurance increased. Since then, we’ve considered trekking poles required equipment—nearly as important as our boots and packs.

The Benefits of Trekking Poles

Studies show that during a typical 8-hour hike you’ll transfer more than 250 tons of pressure to a pair of trekking poles. When going downhill, poles significantly reduce stress to your knees, as well as your lower back, heel and forefoot. They alleviate knee strain when you’re going uphill too, because you’re climbing with your arms and shoulders, not just your legs. Poles also improve your posture. They keep you more upright, which gives you greater lung capacity and allows more efficient breathing.

The heavier your pack, the more you’ll appreciate the support of trekking poles. You’ll find them especially helpful for crossing unbridged streams, traversing steep slopes, and negotiating snowfields or muddy, rooty, rough stretches of trail. Poles prevent ankle sprains—a common hiking injury. By making you more stable, they actually help you relax, boosting your sense of security and confidence.

Don’t carry one of those big, heavy, gnarled, wooden staffs, unless you’re going to a costume party dressed as Gandalf. They’re more burden than benefit. If you can’t afford trekking poles, make do with a pair of old ski poles. They’re not as effective or comfortable as poles designed specifically for trekking, but they’re better than hiking empty handed. If possible, invest in a pair of true trekking poles.

Even the best trekking poles are not expensive: under $140 per pair. The leading brands are Komperdell, Black Diamond, and Leki. We’ve never found Komperdell poles appealing, so we haven’t used them and cannot comment on them. But we know Leki trekking poles intimately. And we’ve tested Black Diamond’s newest trekking poles.

Black Diamond vs. Leki

Leki trekking poles (various models) have been our constant companions for 17 years. We can recommend them without hesitation. Their durability has been astonishing. And their Aergon grips are by far the most comfortable available. In particular, we suggest the Leki Thermolite Aergon Antishock for men, and the Leki Thermolite Shiva Aergon Antishock for women.

Our only complaint about Leki poles is that the twist-lock mechanisms require too much effort. To lengthen or shorten the poles in response to varying terrain, you must unlock, adjust, then re-lock the poles. It’s just difficult enough that we often don’t do it. We just continue hiking with the poles at a less-than-optimal length: either slightly too long or short.

All trekking poles made by Black Diamond have flick locks instead of twist locks. Leki, too, has begun offering flick-lock trekking poles. Many people prefer flick locks, because they’re very easy to operate, and they lock more securely. We don’t like flick locks because they give poles a heavier swing weight, making them more awkward and cumbersome. And flick locks are bulky. Most flick-lock trekking poles have two flick locks per pole, which makes them look like orthopedic devices.

We prefer the streamlined twist locks, even if they’re not as easy to operate. You swing your poles with every stride. You adjust your poles only occasionally. So it’s logical that “quick” trekking poles with an optimal swing weight would be preferable to poles that feel heavy and slow but are easy to adjust.

You now have another option, however: Black Diamond’s “Z Poles.” One model of Z Pole is the “Distance FL.” It has no locking mechanisms on the two lower sections of each pole. Instead, there’s just one flick lock located high on the shaft, just below the grip, where it has no effect on swing weight. The lower sections of the Distance FL engage and disengage much the same way as tent poles.

These new BD poles seemed like a significant improvement, so we purchased a pair for each of us. We’ve been testing them recently. Here are our conclusions:

• The BD poles feel as reliably sturdy as our Leki poles.

• On steep ascents and descents, we don’t hesitate to adjust the length of the BD poles, because the flick lock works quickly, easily and perfectly every time.

• The BD’s single flick lock (located high on the shaft, near the grip) has almost no affect on swing weight. The BDs feel nearly as light and quick as our Leki poles. Not quite, but nearly.

• The BD poles, however, are stiffer than the Leki poles. And the BD shafts do not taper as narrowly near the tip as the Leki shafts do. This means the BD poles transfer more shock and vibration up the shaft to our hands and wrists. With each pole plant, the BDs land with a jarring thud. This is annoying and uncomfortable, especially on sustained, steep descents. The Leki shafts flex slightly, so they absorb shock. Even Leki poles without shock absorbers are more forgiving and comfortable than the BDs.

• The grips on the Distance FL poles are not ergonomic. They’re cylindrical. They’re also very slender. And they’re virtually straight. This makes them far less comfortable than the sculpted, more substantial, positive-angle, Leki Aergon grips. You should rarely hold trekking poles tightly. You should hold them loosely, with your wrists cradled in the straps. Yet the size and shape of the grips significantly influence how comfortable your trekking poles are. Leki poles are supremely comfortable. BD poles are markedly less comfortable.

• The tops of the BD grips are small, about the size of a quarter. The tops of the Leki grips are elongated and bulbous. On extremely steep descents, it’s often helpful to place the palms of your hands on top of the grips. You can do this comfortably with the Leki grips. On the BD grips, it’s awkward and soon hurts.

• The BD straps are nearly as comfortable as the Leki straps. (Nearly, but not quite.) The BD straps, however, are attached to the grip with a small loop of thin nylon cord. To us, this appears to be a weak point in the design. How long will that cord last? We’re skeptical. But we know our Leki straps have never failed us.

• The tips of both the BD and Leki poles are carbide. But the BD tips screw into a plastic receiver. The Leki tips are permanently embedded in a plastic receiver. Carbide tips eventually wear out, but it takes a long time. When a Leki tip wears out, you simply replace the entire receiver/tip. The BD tips are intended to be installed and removed by hand, but you’ll likely need a pair of pliers. Even with pliers, it’s not possible to completely tighten the BD tips. They remain somewhat loose in the receiver. Perhaps that’s okay, but it appears the BD tips could loosen, unscrew, and fall out.

• One advantage of the BD poles is that they come with two pairs of interchangeable tips: one pair of carbide tips, one pair of hard plastic tips. Presumably the plastic tips would be ideal on canyon-country slickrock. Another advantage of the BD poles is that the tips, because they’re separate from the receivers, are less expensive than the Leki tips.

Final Analysis

The BD poles are much easier to adjust, and they lock more securely. We like the interchangeable tips for use on different terrain. For traveling, the BD poles are more convenient. When you break a BD pole down into three sections, the sections remain loosely linked together. Assembling the pole is as easy as connecting the bungee-cord-linked sections of a tent pole.

But the BD poles, despite their sophisticated innovations, do not compete with the sophisticated feel of the Leki poles. For us, feel is everything. Our trekking poles are not a mere accessory we use only occasionally. They’re essential equipment that we hold in our hands and use constantly, all day, every day we hike. After marveling at the ingenious design of the BD poles, we were soon frustrated with them on the trail, wishing we had our trusted Leki poles in hand.

The Black Diamond Distance FL “Z” poles are intriguing and impressive. They’re easier to assemble, adjust, and disassemble. They’re more convenient to transport. But the Leki Thermolite Aergon Antishock trekking poles are vastly superior where it counts: while you’re striding along the trail.

We’ll continue recommending Leki trekking poles. Meanwhile, we suspect Leki will introduce new poles with design improvements similar to, perhaps superior to, those now available on the BD poles. So check Leki.com occasionally.

Whichever brand of trekking pole you prefer, buy a pair soon so you’ll have them all summer. At the moment, you’ll find Leki Thermolite Aergon and Leki Luau Aergon trekking poles on sale at www.sierratradingpost.com for $86.37, which is 30% off the regular price of $124.78. These poles don’t have the anti-shock feature, but they’re otherwise excellent.

Did the universe send us a symbolic gift of encouragement? We were certain of it when, years ago, we received an Alberta license plate bearing the letters CFA. We recognized it as an acronym: Camp Free Always.

"B.C." stands for "Best Camping"

Camping free has long been our creed. We wrote a book about it: Camp Free in B.C. But sometimes camping free-of-charge isn’t feasible, as on our recent drive through British Columbia. It was late. We considered pushing deeper into the night. We knew of a free campground ahead in the foothills. But another long drive the next day was necessary for us to catch the boat on Lake Chelan, in Washington, where we intended to backpack. (We’ll describe that magnificent trail in our next post.) We didn’t want to be exhausted when we began hiking. So we caved to convenience and pulled into Okanagan Lake Provincial Park.

We’re ashamed to admit we spent $30 to pitch our tent there. The campground was meticulously maintained. The endlessly hot shower was soothing. But $30? Too much. Especially given the campground location: immediately below the highway. We couldn’t listen to the water lapping at the lakeshore. We had to wear earplugs to drown out the vehicle noise so we could get the sleep we’d invested in.

The experience reminded us that Camp Free in B.C. is an important, valuable resource. Yes, some provincial-park campgrounds (smaller ones in less desirable locations, with limited facilities and no showers) charge only about $22 per campsite per night. But many campgrounds in B.C. remain free of charge or truly cheap: just $12 per site, per night. And because these are mostly beyond paved roads, they feel wilder than provincial parks and are often much quieter. You want to find them? Pick up a copy of Camp Free in B.C.

Camp Free gives you detailed descriptions of, and complete driving directions to, 350 free-of-charge campgrounds (plus 80 low-fee ones) throughout southern and central British Columbia, including Vancouver Island, the Sunshine Coast, the Okanagan, the Shuswap Highlands, the Rocky Mountain Trench, the Cariboo Mountains, and the Chilcotin Plateau.

You’ll find Camp Free for sale at all Indigo-Chapters bookstores, and in the book sections at Mountain Equipment Co-op stores. You can also purchase Camp Free directly off our website. Or from Amazon.com.

To jumpstart your free-camping adventures this summer, here are some of our favourite, free-of-charge, B.C. campgrounds. We rate each of these “destination,” meaning they’re worthy of a multi-day stay, not just a utilitarian, overnight stop.

Toquart Bay, page 53, SE of Tofino, on Vancouver Island

Nimpkish Lake, page 72, S of Port McNeil, N end of Vancouver Island  (ideal for kite-boarding & windsurfing)

Cal-Cheak, page 122, at the confluence of Callaghan Creek and Cheakamus River, SW of Whistler

Lillooet Lake and Duffey Lake, page 130, in the Coast Mountains, NE of Pemberton

Seton Dam, page 135, W of Lillooet, in the Coast Mountains

Ashnola River, page 168, near Keremeos, close to Cathedral Provicial Park

Harmon Lake, page 183, near Merritt

Wragge Beach, page 272, near New Denver, in the West Kootenay

Little Slocan Lake, page 280, NW of Nelson, near Valhalla Provincial Park, in the West Kootenay

Glacier Creek and Howser Glayco, page 292, N of Kaslo, in the West Kootenay

Mitten Lake, page 306, between Golden and Radium Hot Springs

Quesnel Lake, Crooked Lake (and 30 other free campgrounds in the vicinity), page 433, in the East Cariboo, W of Wells Gray Park

Owen Lake, page 474, SE of Smithers

Beaver River, page 495, NW of Robson Provincial Park

In November, 2010, we sold our 2006 Toyota Rav4 and purchased a 2008, 19-foot Airstream Bambi SE and a base model 2010 Nissan Pathfinder. In a previous post, titled “The Backcountry Hikers’ Frontcountry Dilemma: Tent Camping vs. RVing,” we described the travel trailers (TTs) we considered before choosing the Airstream. In this post, we’ll describe our feelings about the Airstream now that we’ve been camping in it several months. We’ll also describe the tow vehicles (TVs) we considered and tell you how we feel about the Pathfinder now that we’ve put it to the test.

First, here are the TVs that made our short list:

Vehicle        engine    liters     hp         torque     towing capacity

2010
Toyota
RAV 4          V6        3.5        269         246          3,500 lbs

2010
Toyota
FJ Cruiser    V6        4          259          270          5,000 lbs

2010
Toyota
4Runner        V6       4          270          278          5,000 lbs

2010
Nissan
Xterra            V6        4         261          281          5,000 lbs

2010
Nissan
Pathfinder     V6         4       266           288          6000 lbs

2010
Jeep
Liberty          V6         3.7     210          235           5000 lbs

2011
VW
Touareg        V6 TDI    3      225          406           7700 lbs

As we explained, we originally purchased our Toyota Rav4 with the intention of pulling a small, light TT. But after seriously researching TTs, we lost our enthusiasm for any of the options that were within the Rav’s towing capacity:

T@b
UBW – 1615 lbs
GVWR – 1939 lbs
15’ 6” total length, 10’ 3” interior length
The T@b is no longer manufactured, but this website…  http://rosalindgardner.com/inside-the-tb-trailer/ … offers photos and stats that might help you decide if you want to purchase a used one.

Forest River Rpod 171
UBW – 2121 lbs
GVWR – 3181 lbs
18’ 4” total length, 15’ 8” interior length
www.forestriverinc.com

Camplite CL13QBB
UBW – 1900 lbs
GVWR – 2500 lbs
16’ 6” total length, interior length not stated on website
www.livinlite.com

Northern Lite
UBW – 1980 lbs
GVWR not stated on website
16’ total length, interior length not stated on website
www.northern-lite.com

Escape 15B
UBW 1750 lbs
GVWR 3500 lbs
15’ 8” total length, interior length not stated on website
www.escapetrailer.com

Casita Liberty Deluxe 17’
UBW – 2480 lbs
GVWR – 3500 lbs
17’ total length, interior length not stated on website
www.casitatraveltrailers.com

You’ll find subjective descriptions of the above trailers in our previous post titled “The Backcountry Hikers’ Frontcountry Dilemma: Tent Camping vs. RVing.”

Here are the Airstream options we considered:

Airstream Sport 16’
UBW – 2897 lbs
GVWR – 3500 lbs
16’ 4’ total length, 13 ft interior length
www.airstream.com

Airstream 19’ Bambi SE or 19’ Flying Cloud
UBW – 3792 lbs
GVWR – 4500 lbs
19’ 2” total length, 15’ 5” interior length
www.airstream.com

Here are some other interesting RVs we researched:

www.bigfootrv.com
(They closed shop briefly a couple years ago, but they’ve resumed building quality TTs and truck campers in Edmonton, Alberta.)

www.earthroamer.com
(The ultimate truck camper. Excessive in every way, but fascinating to contemplate.)

www.sportsmobile.com
(Luxurious, capable, camperized 4WD vans.)

Safari Condo (www.safaricondo.com)
(A unique TT made in Canada. The model 1723 is 17 feet long, looks fabulous, has a shower, but costs $31,000. Production is limited, however, and what if that lift motor malfunctions?)

Scamp (www.scamptrailers.com)
(Similar to Casita and Escape.)

Heartland (www.heartlandrvs.com)
The Edge, MPG, and Focus models are light yet fully featured.

Choosing a travel trailer (TT) and tow vehicle (TV) is a complex decision, because you’re simultaneously choosing two vehicles and must inevitably make several compromises. What swayed us away from the Rav4 plus an Escape (our favourite of the lightweight TTs), and toward a more robust TV plus an Airstream, was three realizations:

(1) The GVWR of the Escape 15B and that of the Airstream Sport 16’ are identical. We could not fully load either of these TTs and expect our Rav4 to comfortably, safely pull them in all conditions.

(2) The materials, engineering and construction of an Escape are toy-like compared to an Airstream. If purchasing a new, stronger TV, we’d much rather own an Airstream.

(3) It’s possible to find a used-but-well-cared-for Airstream for about the same price as a new Escape. For example, a new Escape 15B sells for $19,600 plus options, and most people will find many of the options essential. While researching TTs, however, we found a 2004, 19’ Airstream Bambi in superb condition for $23,000, and a beautiful, 2004, 16’ Airstream International CCD Bambi also for $23,000. Both the Airstreams were luxuriously equipped. By the time we ordered the necessary options for the Escape, it too would have tipped the scale toward $23,000. Yet the Escape did not warrant comparison to either of these Airstreams.

Step inside an Escape and an Airstream. The difference is obvious and dramatic. If you intend to use your TT for only a few weeks each summer, an Escape is fine. If, like us, you intend to live in your TT for several months each year, you’ll probably prefer the Airstream. The Escape is adequate. The Airstream is sumptuous. The Escape feels like shelter. The Airstream feels like home. It’s also apparent that while Escapes hold their value, Airstreams are rare and coveted in Canada. Either should be easy to sell, but if I had to sell one or the other, particularly in Canada, I’d feel more confident selling an Airstream.

As for tow vehicles, any on our short list would comfortably pull the 16’ Airstream Sport. But only the Nissan Pathfinder or VW Touareg can manhandle a 19’ Airstream Bambi. The 2011 Touareg is the most fuel-efficient tow vehicle now available: 28 mpg hwy, 19 mpg city. Yet the price of a base “Comfortline” Touareg— $53,000 CDN—was far beyond our means. We figured if we had to switch vehicles, it would be a mistake to opt for one with a mere 5000-lb towing capacity, especially when we could get a rebate on a Pathfinder (towing capacity of 6000 lbs) that made it as affordable as any of our other choices. So we opted for a Pathfinder and a 19’ Airstream.

We left Canada in early December, 2010, driving the Pathfinder. We’d already purchased the Airstream from a couple in San Francisco who were purchasing a motorhome. We picked up the trailer at their house and continued down the California coast.

We’ve now pulled the trailer through dense traffic in L.A., Phoenix and Tucson. Most of the past three months, however, we’ve avoided cities. We’ve primarily camped in state and national-park campgrounds, but we have free-camped. Occasionally we’ve left the trailer and driven the Pathfinder on unpaved roads to remote trailheads.

Our conclusions?

We’re completely satisfied with the Pathfinder and the Airstream. They’ve met or exceeded all our expectations, and we’ve developed a strong affection for both.

We prefer the Pathfinder to the Rav. It’s much more spacious: leg room as well as cargo room. A couple times we’ve slept in it at trailheads, and in this regard it’s far more comfortable than the Rav. It also tracks solidly on the highway, whereas the Rav was slightly skittish. We miss the sports-car-like acceleration of the Rav, but the Pathfinder is no laggard. Best of all, the Pathfinder gets the highway gas mileage we were promised by Nissan: about 22 mpg on its own, and about 16 mpg pulling the trailer. That’s not a big drop from the Rav, which never did better than 26 mpg.

During our travels, we met someone pulling a new, 17’ Casita TT with a Rav identical to the one we owned. He was deeply disappointed because his highway gas mileage had dropped to 11 mpg. It was his first month with the Casita and already he was considering trading up to a more robust TV. His report corroborated our belief that our Rav, despite its stated towing capacity, would not have handled an Escape TT to our satisfaction.

As for the Airstream, it’s superb. It serves us perfectly as a mobile home and office: our company’s winter HQ. It’s intelligently designed, solidly built, highly functional, extremely livable.

The bed is narrower than we’d prefer, but it’s adequate. There’s no kitchen counter space, which can be awkward, but we’ve managed. Though we’d imagined ourselves towing it on unpaved roads to more remote campgrounds and trailheads, we’ve been reluctant to do so. It can probably take the abuse, but we’re disinclined to test it. We prefer to unhitch, leave the trailer behind, and take just the Pathfinder. That’s as critical as we can be of the Airstream, and none of these drawbacks surprised us. We were aware of them long before we purchased it.

We enjoy the Airstream’s spacious dinette. We can leave the table up, rather than be constantly disassembling and reassembling it. We love the panoramic, wrap around, front window. The insulation (including heated, insulated tanks) keeps us comfortable in very cold weather. The shower is huge. So is the fridge. Storage space is vast and convenient. We didn’t think we wanted a vanity/bathroom sink, but we’ve found it useful when the kitchen sink is full of dirty dishes. Even after continually working 30 hours a week in the Airstream, its interior remains very pleasing to us. And the trailer tows beautifully. We use a Reese weight-distribution hitch. No need for an anti-sway device. The Airstream tracks perfectly straight even when huge semis blast by us on the highway.

And the comments we frequently get…

“Love your Airstream!”
“That is the cutest trailer!”
“Oh, I’ve always wanted one of those!”

… are gratifying.

Having never towed anything, we were unnerved the first few days we towed the Airstream. But we quickly got accustomed to it. We’ve safely negotiated narrow, crowded, parking lots. We’ve even learned to back up efficiently, without devolving into the stereotypical wife and husband screaming at each other in the campground. She directs. I follow her directions. So far, no trees, homes, offices, other vehicles or people have been harmed in the process.

If you followed our blog last year, we thank you. We also apologize. What we expected would be only a short break beginning last fall has ended up being a four-month hiatus.

We won’t burden you with a mundane, tediously long explanation for our absence from the blogosphere. Broadcasting the minutiae of our personal life isn’t our purpose when blogging, and we trust it’s not what you’re seeking when you visit hikingcamping.com.

The intent of our blog is to inspire you to hike and camp by providing you with specific, practical, albeit enthusiastic suggestions based on our recent ventures, many of which are beyond the scope of the guidebooks we write and publish.

Now that we’ve resumed blogging, we hope you’ll hang with us again in 2011. We’ll do our best to post once a week.

Just bear in mind, hikingcamping.com is a molecule of a company. The entire full-time staff comprises just two people: me (Craig) and Kathy. And our goal has always been to spend maximum time outdoors, hiking and camping. So it occasionally becomes impossible for us to maintain a quality, reader-focused blog.

At the moment we’re in southern Arizona, near Tucson, camping beneath the Santa Catalina Mountains. When not working on upcoming books, we’re hiking. Though it’s mid-January—the heart of winter—the weather is warm enough that we can stride all day in T-shirts and shorts.

So far, we can strongly recommend several hikes in the Pusch Ridge Wilderness:

• a 17-mi (27.4-km) round trip gaining 3200 ft (975 m) to Romero Pass via the Romero Pools in Romero Canyon

• a 10-mi (16.1-km) round trip gaining 4000 ft (1219) to Mt. Kimball via Five Finger Canyon

• an 18-mi (30-km) loop gaining 1600 ft (488 m) up Sabino Canyon to Hutch’s Pool, then returning through Bear Canyon past the Seven Pools

• the 6-mi (9.7-km) Phoneline trail gaining only 600 ft (183 m) while traversing the east wall of Sabino Canyon between the visitor center and the final tram stop (end of paved road)

And—presuming you’re a camper, not a hotel softie—we can say with certainty that the ideal place to base yourself here is Catalina State Park, in Oro Valley, just off Oracle Road. It’s big, well organized, not overly refined thus reasonably priced, and located at the mouth of Romero Canyon, where a trail network begins at the campsites.

Catalina State Park is also a short drive from a dizzying array of shops and restaurants, which to us seems bizarre but is, we confess, convenient and enjoyable. Whole Foods Market, and Sprouts Farmers Market, Trader Joe’s, all of which are natural-foods grocery stores, are nearby.

Mexican food, our favourite cuisine, is ubiquitous, excellent, and temptingly affordable. After a big day hiking the Catalinas, we beeline-it to a unique Mexican grill called Chipotle (www.chipotle.com), or to a contemporary tacqueria called Rubio’s (www.rubios.com).

Heck, winter hiking can be such a hot, sweaty activity here, we’ve even patronized Orange Leaf Frozen Yogurt.

You’re a fellow Canadian, and you’re in Canada right now? We hope you relish winter, as most Canadians do, and therefore don’t feel taunted when we rave about winter hiking in Arizona.

You’re a genuine, snow-lovin’-and-proud-of-it Canadian? We urge you to consider a mid-winter vacation to this exotic land of saguaro cacti. It’s dreamy this time of year. Hiking opportunities are abundant and superb.

We’ll be back soon with continued hiking/camping advice we hope you’ll put to use when you come down here to thaw and explore.

Regardless where you’ll be hiking, here’s to a high-mileage 2011.

Late Fall Hiking in the Canadian Rockies

Today is November 9, 2010. In our last blog post, we said that upon returning from northeast Italy and the French island of Corsica, we’d offer you whatever practical info we could about climbing the via ferrata in the Dolomiti and hiking the GR20.

Well, we’re back—early.

After one week of gorgeous weather in the Dolomiti, our via ferrata experience was cut short by an onslaught of snow and icy temperatures. Likewise, after one week of optimal weather on Corsica, we were forced off the GR 20 by lashing rain, obstinate wind, and low clouds (zero visibility), plus looming transportation disruptions in France due to nationwide protests (including fuel-refinery strikes) in response to the proposed retirement-benefits age increase from 60 to 62.

Still, we enjoyed the trip. We were grateful for the freedom to travel. And we learned a lot, particularly about how best to hike the GR20 unsupported—carrying a tent and your own food, thus avoiding the overcrowded huts. We’ll tell all soon, in an upcoming post.

For now, we’ll offer a brief report on some of the dayhikes we completed here in the Canadian Rockies immediately upon returning home. After all that adventure-quashing snow and rain in Europe, we arrived in Canmore beneath a blue sky. The sun was brilliant, the air calm, the temperature a relaxing 19° C, and the mountains not the least bit white. We dumped our climbing and backpacking gear, loaded our daypacks, and immediately ventured onto some of our local trails intending to fully appreciate this unexpected gift from that infuriatingly inscrutable weather demon Climate Change.

In Yoho National Park, we saw nobody while hiking the Emerald Triangle (Trip 52, page 199, Don’t Waste Your Time in the Canadian Rockies). The entire trail circling Emerald Lake (by way of Burgess Pass, the Burgess Shale Beds, the Wapta Highline, and Yoho Pass) was free of snow yet also devoid of hikers. Emerald Lake Lodge, usually a hive of activity, was closed for the season. No tour buses. No crowds. The parking lot, constantly teeming in summer, was empty. Ours was the only vehicle. So we urge you to keep this hike in mind for late fall, when you too might find optimal conditions yet have the trail to yourself.

Our experience in Yoho suggested anything was possible for hikers while such unseasonably warm weather persisted, so the next goal we set for ourselves was Tumbling Pass (Trip 35, page 152, Don’t Waste Your Time in the Canadian Rockies). Deep in Kootenay National Park, Tumbling Pass is among the scenic highlights of the famous Rockwall trail (Trip 89), which we’ve backpacked many times. On a dayhike (Trip 35) the pass is a distant yet worthy destination. But it’s next to, east of, and below the towering Rockwall. So we knew that, this time of year, it would be in shade when we arrived there at midday, and Tumbling Glacier would not be photogenic. What we’d forgotten was that, when the sun remains low on the horizon, shade = cold. We chose a sunny day, but our sacred star was unable to warm what it didn’t directly strike. So while the pass was snow-free, the air was icy. Soon after topping out, we were shivering. We snapped a couple photos, gobbled a snack, and layered up. Then we howled into the wilderness and began hiking out. It was November in the Canadian Rockies, we were carrying only daypacks, and at 4 p.m. we were crossing a frozen stream while still 11.5 km (7 mi) from the trailhead. It was exhilarating. What we saw on that hike, though impressive, was insignificant compared to what we felt. We were hyper-alert all day knowing winter was fast approaching, the sun was descending quickly, and we were utterly alone, way, way out in the backcountry. We treasure sharp-edged memories like this one just as much as we do the soft, warm ones.

Nevertheless, we sought a warmer, softer experience next time out. We hiked to Old Baldy Ridge (Trip 44, page 227, Where Locals Hike in the Canadian Rockies). It’s an ideal late-fall hike, because the trail ascends beside McDougall Creek through a southwest-facing canyon into which the sun shines all day. And the ridgecrest affords a grand view west to the Great Divide. Even if you decline the final, steep-but-short ascent to the ridge, the basin below the ridge is sufficiently dramatic to serve as a destination. As recently as a couple days ago, the canyon and the ridge were free of snow.

Mt. Yamnuska, which is among our early-spring / late-fall favourites, is another hike we completed recently. We encountered only a little, crusty ice and a few patches of wet snow on the back side, but otherwise the route was dry. And we shared the mountain with only two other hikers the entire day.

Our most recent hike was on Sunday, November 7. With the temperature dropping, and dense clouds pouring over the Great Divide, we enjoyed striding around Upper Kananaskis Lake (Trip 46, page 235, Where Locals Hike in the Canadian Rockies). Our friend Wood, the philosopher chef, joined us, so the conversation was as energizing as the scenery. The entire trail was snow-free. If you’re eager to get out, this 14.9-km (9.2-mi) loop is an optimal choice right now.

Though the weather appears to be returning to seasonal norms (daytime highs at or just above 0°C / 32°F), and skiers will soon venture onto the slopes at Sunshine and Lake Louise, the snowpack in the Canadian Rockies remains surprisingly light. Many hiking trails are still snow-free. In addition to those mentioned above, here are other prime possibilities:

Wasootch Ridge (Trip 43, page 223, Where Locals Hike in the Canadian Rockies).

Mt. Rundle, South Summit (Trip 40, page 212, Where Locals Hike in the Canadian Rockies).

From Old Baldy Ridge, we could see that even Mt. Allan (Trip 15, page 88, Where Locals Hike in the Canadian Rockies) is still hikeable. Here’s the link to the article we wrote about Mt. Allan in our Opinionated Hiker column in the Calgary Herald: http://www.calgaryherald.com/travel/Ready+challenge+Kananaskis+Country/3443994/story.html

The crowds and bugs are gone. The scenery is as magnificent as ever. The lighting is conducive to gorgeous photography. The solitude is delicious.

Walk on.

Thanks for visiting hikingcamping.com.

Through the summer, we’ve done our best to blog weekly. But we’ll be unable to do so for the next two months. We’ll be climbing the via ferrata in the Italian Dolomiti, then trekking the Grande Randonnée 20 on the French island of Corsica.

Many peaks in the Dolomites have fixed cables, ladders and bridges, allowing otherwise isolated climbing routes to be joined to create longer routes and making them accessible to climbers who, like us, are not exceptionally skilled. “Via ferrata” means “iron way.” The first via ferratas were built in the Dolomite region of northern Italy during the First World War to aid the movement of mountain infantry.

The GR 20 follows the mountainous spine of Corsica. From Calenzana in the north, to Conca in the south, it’s about 180 km (112 mi) long, entails more than 10,000 m (32,800 ft) of elevation gain, and takes about two weeks to complete. It’s widely considered the most demanding long-distance trek in Europe.

We’ll resume blogging in late November. Please check back with us then. We’ll have lots of practical advice and inspiring photos to offer anyone interested in the via ferrata and/or the GR 20.

If you’re contacting us about business—specifically, the titles published by hikingcamping.com—not to worry. Our distribution manager, Theresa, will be here handling our publishing company’s daily operations while we’re away. She’ll promptly ship your book order and gladly respond to any questions or concerns.

Please check our blog again in late November. Shortly thereafter, our new book — Heading Outdoors Eventually Leads Within, Thoughts Inspired by 30,000 Miles on the Trail—will be available. Keep it in mind as a Christmas gift for friends and family who have an affinity for nature. We know they and you will find it unique, meaningful, and beautiful.

Until then…   Walk on.

– Kathy & Craig

Kathy and I were recently interviewed by Allan Buckingham, for his “Alpine Authors” program on Banff Park Radio. You can listen to the podcast on the Authors page of our website: http://www.hikingcamping.com/authors.php

This past week in the Canadian Rockies, enough snow has fallen at high elevations and the daytime temperatures have remained cool enough that scrambling season has clearly ended. Sure, any summit is accessible any time of year, if you’re a black-belt mountaineer. But a patina of snow and/or ice makes a long, steep, rough scramble significantly more challenging and possibly dangerous for most of us. So between now and ski season, it’s wise to hike rather than scramble.

Our final scramble of the season was Mt. Temple. We did it on the last, truly summer day of what has been little better than a mild winter these past four months here in Canmore and Banff.

Looming above Lake Louise, 3543-m (11,624-ft) Mt. Temple wears a helmet of ice. From the lake, the peak appears insurmountably vertical. But from the other side, starting at Moraine Lake (1884 m / 6181 ft), a pedestrian glideway of a hiking trail leads to 2373-m (7785-ft) Sentinel Pass. From there, it’s only a moderate scramble to the summit of Mt. Temple. Total elevation gain: 1659 m (5442 ft). We completed the round trip in nine hours.

As you can see, the summit panorama is glorious. And the ascent, though taxing, is enjoyable. If you’re an outdoor athlete with a head for heights and enough scrambling experience to be comfortable on steep talus and scree, you should find Mt. Temple a reasonable goal. The ideal time to do it is late summer, once the route is snow free. Wait for three days of perfect weather. Plan your trip for the middle day. Bring a helmet and, just in case, an ice axe. Pack enough clothing layers that you can enjoy sitting on the summit for an hour even if the wind is screaming. And try to get an alpine start, so you won’t be racing down the mountain at sunset. You’ll want plenty of time to choose the optimal route—particularly on the descent.

Our thanks to Ken, Tracy, John and Ian — our companions on Mt. Temple — for ensuring we didn’t sleep in that morning, as is our slothful tendency.

Last Sunday morning, we hiked up French Creek canyon and encountered enough deadfall to discourage a gazelle. So we retreated, opting instead to spend the afternoon hiking King Creek Ridge, where we knew we would fully appreciate what remained of that gorgeous day. We left the King Creek trailhead parking lot at 4 pm. We had the entire ridge to ourselves. The magical, evening light kept us shooting photos for an hour atop the crest. The entire hike, including the strenuous ascent and descent of the ridge, was exhilarating. After working our way through the narrow, steep-walled gorge cut by King Creek, crossing and recrossing the lively creek, we arrived back at the trailhead at 9 pm, completely fulfilled. If you’re fit and have a little scrambling and routefinding experience, we urge you to go soon, while the crest of King Creek Ridge and the skirts of the nearby Opal Range are still luxuriously green. For details, read Trip 19, starting on page 108, in Where Locals Hike in the Canadian Rockies, the Premier Trails in Kananakis Country, near Canmore and Calgary.

This past week we started at the Vista Lake viewpoint trailhead (Highway 93, Banff National Park) and completed a 21.8-km (13.5-mi) round-trip dayhike to Gibbon Pass, en route passing Vista, Arnica, Upper Twin, and Lower Twin lakes. Trail conditions are perfect. No snow, even at the pass. The entire day we encountered only one other party: three people who were camped at Upper Twin Lake. Theirs was the only tent in the campground. If you’re wondering where to dayhike now in the Canadian Rockies, this is an excellent choice. We urge you to start early and continue to Gibbon Pass, where the view extends far south—beyond the basins clasping Shadow, Mummy, Scarab, Egypt, and Natalko lakes—all the way to the Matterhorn of the Rockies: Mount Assiniboine. For a complete description of the Twin Lakes / Gibbon Pass dayhike, read Don’t Waste Your Time in the Canadian Rockies, the Opinionated Hiking Guide. It’s Trip 41 (page 169).