New Zealand has marketed itself to hikers more successfully than any country in the world. True, NZ is blessed with gorgeous scenery and has an enviable number of tracks (trails), but those aren’t the only reasons it ranks high on many hikers’ life lists. Kiwis are smart. Their nation’s natural beauty is an infinitely renewable resource, so they sell it—hard. And in doing so, they sometimes exaggerate.

Case in point: the Tongariro Crossing. Kiwis convincingly tout it as “the world’s greatest day-trek.”

They’re entitled to their opinion. And, granted, it’s a subjective matter. But having hiked the Tongariro Crossing three times during the past 20 years, and meanwhile having also sampled a lot of the most spectacular hiking terrain elsewhere in the world (Patagonia, French Alps, Sierra Nevada, Alaska, etc.), Kathy and I can say with assurance there are many day treks more deserving of “the world’s best” label. We hiked one of them just last week: the Lake O’Hara Alpine Circuit, in Yoho National Park, in the Canadian Rockies.

Is the Alpine Circuit the best dayhike in the world? Perhaps. It certainly ranks among the top ten.

Compare the photos above. The first six are from the Lake O’Hara Alpine Circuit. The bottom three are from the Tongariro Crossing. Where would you rather hike? We believe most hikers will agree the Alpine Circuit offers a scenically superior experience. So why doesn’t Canada market the Canadian Rockies with anything approaching the cunning and savvy with which Kiwis market New Zealand?

We hope the Lake O’Hara Alpine Circuit is on your radar. Before you go, read Trip 14, page 89, in Don’t Waste Your Time in the Canadian Rockies, the Opinionated Hiking Guide. Meanwhile, here’s our advice…

If you’re reasonably fit, begin the day by ascending to Wiwaxy Gap. Next, follow the Huber Ledges to Lake Oesa. From there, descend back to Lake O’Hara. Allowing plenty of time to gaze and take photos, this abbreviated loop will take you about three or four hours.

You’re fit and keen? Continue from Lake Oesa, onto the Yukness Ledges, then down to Hungabee Lake. From there, descend the East Opabin trail to the south shore of Lake O’Hara. Total hiking time: five to six hours.

You’re very fit and super keen? Proceed west along the north shore of Hungabee Lake. Work your way onto the All Souls’ Traverse, beneath Schaffer Ridge. Ascend to All Souls’ Prospect for a new panorama of the entire region. Then descend the Big Larches trail to Lake O’Hara, arriving there about seven or eight hours after you began hiking.

Bear stories are boring. Actually most animal stories are boring. Everyone tells them. Yet the magic we feel during a close encounter with wildlife is difficult, often impossible, to convey. And most people simply aren’t skilled at story telling. All of us have politely listened to others’ animal stories, feigning interest throughout the tedious litany of unnecessary detail, so it’s best to keep that in mind when we’re tempted to regale our friends about our latest wild-kingdom experience. Regardless how cute that chipmunk was, how crazily that moose behaved, or how much that bear terrified us, we’ll only bore our friends if we burden them with the whole story.

So we’ll be brief here.

On our recent backpack trip up Johnston Creek Valley to Luellen Lake, Pulsatilla Pass, and Badger Pass (Trip 101, page 370, Don’t Waste Your Time in the Canadian Rockies), we encountered a sow grizzly with her cub. We’d been making bear-warning calls (http://www.hikingcamping.com/bear-safety.php), so the bear was not surprised. She heard us approaching and was moving in our direction, clearly coming to check us out, when we spotted one another about 40 metres apart. She continued slowly but confidently striding forward. We scanned the area, assessed the situation, spoke briefly to one another, unholstered our pepper spray, then retreated—all the way back to the trailhead. End of story.

Our point is this: Let the bear be the boss. Bears live in the backcountry. It’s their home. We humans are uninvited guests. Bears generally display remarkable tolerance of human beings. But if we test their patience, it might end tragically—for them as well as us.

Deferring to a bear can, in a situation like ours, be counter-intuitive. “What? Back down? Turn around? Me? Now? No way!” Letting the mere presence of an animal quash our efforts and alter our plans is counter to what society has taught us about humans being masters of the planet.

We’d started hiking in Johnston Canyon, camped the first night at Luellen Lake, and were in the upper reaches of Johnston Creek Valley, a mere 1 km shy of Badger Junction campground. We intended to camp there, then dayhike to both passes. The weather was magnificent. We’d been unable to shoot good photos of either pass during our previous visits due to rain and low, heavy clouds. Finally, our timing was perfect. So, we admit, we considered maneuvering around the bear and continuing.

But it was apparent this bear and her cub had taken up temporary residence in the area and were disinclined to leave, which made us disinclined to stay. It was a painful decision. Prepping for a backpack trip takes hours. We’d hiked—carrying hefty packs—nearly a day-and-a-half prior to mama bear’s stern greeting. Turning back at that point meant another day-long slog, and a virtually empty camera card. Save for Luellen Lake, the hike had been a scenic zero—a long march through disenchanted forest on a muddy, horse-tromped trail. Finally, our reward was just ahead. We’d soon be surging into the alpine zone. The bear didn’t overtly threaten us, but she tore our trip into tatters.

During the long, rather depressing, down-valley hike, we replayed the situation in our minds, discussed alternatives, pondered our decision, and agreed we’d chosen the wise course of action. We thought we should tell you about it because you could someday find yourself in similar circumstances. Having a frame of reference might help you make a quick, smart decision under pressure.

Remember to make lots of noise on the trail; it’s your best defense. (Download our Bears Beware MP3. Listening to it while driving to the trailhead could save your life.) If you do encounter a bear, remember to let him or her be the boss. And later, though it might seem like a fascinating tale, remember to spare your friends the details.

All the cable-car crossings of Hamill Creek are again in good working order. The campsites are intact. The grove of giant cedars was untouched by the fire. And the trail has recently been cleared of brush and deadfall. You will enter a burned forest soon after departing the west (Argenta) trailhead, but persevere. That’s not the state of the forest the entire way.

This is the premier long-distance trail in the West Kootenay. We encourage you to hike it now, while conditions are optimal.

While you’re in the vicinity, we also enthusiastically recommend dayhiking Fry Creek (Trip 42). This short but spectacular trail starts in the nearby settlement of Johnsons Landing.

Last Sunday morning, we hiked up French Creek canyon and encountered enough deadfall to discourage a gazelle. So we retreated, opting instead to spend the afternoon hiking King Creek Ridge, where we knew we would fully appreciate what remained of that gorgeous day. We left the King Creek trailhead parking lot at 4 pm. We had the entire ridge to ourselves. The magical, evening light kept us shooting photos for an hour atop the crest. The entire hike, including the strenuous ascent and descent of the ridge, was exhilarating. After working our way through the narrow, steep-walled gorge cut by King Creek, crossing and recrossing the lively creek, we arrived back at the trailhead at 9 pm, completely fulfilled. If you’re fit and have a little scrambling and routefinding experience, we urge you to go soon, while the crest of King Creek Ridge and the skirts of the nearby Opal Range are still luxuriously green. For details, read Trip 19, starting on page 108, in Where Locals Hike in the Canadian Rockies, the Premier Trails in Kananakis Country, near Canmore and Calgary.

This past week we started at the Vista Lake viewpoint trailhead (Highway 93, Banff National Park) and completed a 21.8-km (13.5-mi) round-trip dayhike to Gibbon Pass, en route passing Vista, Arnica, Upper Twin, and Lower Twin lakes. Trail conditions are perfect. No snow, even at the pass. The entire day we encountered only one other party: three people who were camped at Upper Twin Lake. Theirs was the only tent in the campground. If you’re wondering where to dayhike now in the Canadian Rockies, this is an excellent choice. We urge you to start early and continue to Gibbon Pass, where the view extends far south—beyond the basins clasping Shadow, Mummy, Scarab, Egypt, and Natalko lakes—all the way to the Matterhorn of the Rockies: Mount Assiniboine. For a complete description of the Twin Lakes / Gibbon Pass dayhike, read Don’t Waste Your Time in the Canadian Rockies, the Opinionated Hiking Guide. It’s Trip 41 (page 169).

Last weekend, we hiked over Healy Pass to the Egypt Lake campground. The vast, glacier-lilly carpet on the southeast side of Healy Pass was spectacular. We encountered no snow, and the trail is in excellent condition. Extensive, recent maintenance is evident, particularly between Healy Pass and Egypt Lake. Thank you, Parks Canada. The next day, we toured Egypt, Scarab and Mummy lakes. Though the area derives its name from Egypt Lake, it’s the upper lakes — Scarab and Mummy— and the nearby passes — Healy and Whistling — that make this a premier backpacking destination. The footlogs that previously spanned the Scarab Lake outlet stream have been pushed aside by a torrent and are now useless, but hikers have improvised a tree-limb footbridge immediately downstream. It worked for us. We encountered snow on the ascent from Scarab to Mummy, but it posed no problem. (Scenery Alert: When rounding the east shore of Scarab Lake outlet stream, detour left / east to quickly attain an exciting, aerial view of Egypt Lake below. And immediately after crossing the Scarab Lake outlet stream, look left. You’ll see the stream is very short. Follow it downstream, and in one minute you’ll be standing on a precipice, peering directly down the cascade that plummets over the headwall into Egypt Lake.) Thick snowdrifts remain on the east shore of Mummy, but the lake is ice-free. It’s a gorgeous sight. From there, you can look north-northwest through Whistling Pass, whose south slope is now snow-free. We crossed a snowfield while ascending from Mummy Lake to Sphinx Pass, but the soft snow allowed easy kick-stepping. Sphinx Pass is snow-free. Descending southeast from the pass we were again on snow until reaching treeline. Below treeline, the snow is gone. The easiest descent route is directly down the groove beneath the pass, then beside the meltwater stream draining into Natalko Lake. At the lake’s outlet stream, we found the sign indicating the trail descending into Red Earth Pass. The trail initially descends beside the stream, then curves left (north) toward Egypt Lake. The trail (a former road that served the long-ago-abandoned talc mine near the lake) is in good condition, easy to follow. You’re thinking about backpacking to the Egypt Lake campground? Now’s the perfect time to go. But remember, the short detour from the campground to the namesake lake is just the beginning of a superb, half-day foray. Continue up to Scarab and Mummy Lakes, scramble above to Sphinx Pass, descend to Natalko Lake, then cruise back to Egypt Lake campground. The scramble to Sphinx Pass is short: easy bouldering, no exposure. Natalko Lake is surprisingly beautiful—not quite so impressive as Scarab and Mummy lakes but a much more rewarding sight than Egypt Lake. For full details, read Trip 85 (starting on page 298) in Don’t Waste Your Time in the Canadian Rockies, the Opinionated Hiking Guide.

The Opinionated Hikers on Patrol for You

During our recent backcountry research trip in the West Kootenay region of British Columbia, we spent as much time checking trailhead access roads as we did hiking. A lot of what we learned was discouraging. If you keep reading, however, you’ll find we also have encouraging news.

You’re unfamiliar with the West Kootenay? Take time to view an inspiring slide show (http://www.hikingcamping.com/photos-west-kootenay.php) comprising many images from remote but spectacular high-alpine country in the Purcell and Selkirk ranges, which isolate the region.

The West Kootenay is on your agenda? Here’s what you need to know…

Several trailheads described in the 2007 edition of our guidebook Where Locals Hike in the West Kootenay (http://www.hikingcamping.com/hike-west-kootenay.php) are no longer accessible. Some roads are now unmaintained—either overgrown or prohibitively rough. Others have been closed due to forest fires or bridge failures, or decommissioned because resource extraction (forestry, mining) has ceased. In particular, please note the following:

(1) Monica Meadows (Trip 3) and Jumbo Pass (Trip 4) will be inaccessible until a new bridge spans Glacier Creek in the fall of 2010. For details, phone the Ministry of Forests, Kootenay Lake District: (250) 825-1100.

(2) The Lemon Creek road is now impassably overgrown, and the Lemon Creek trail is no longer maintained. So hiking to Glory Basin via Nilsik Creek (Trip 21) or Lemon Creek is inadvisable. Glory Basin is now accessible only via Kokanee Glacier Park Road and the Gibson Lake trailhead, as described in Trip 24.

(3) The Keen Creek road to Joker Millsite trailhead suffered damage and is now impassably overgrown. None of the authorities we spoke with expect the road to re-open. This places Helen Deane and Joker Lakes (Trips 17 and 18) beyond dayhiking distance. To reach these destinations, you must backpack starting at Gibson Lake trailhead (Trips 22, 23, 24).

(4) The Enterprise Creek Valley was severely burned during a 2007 wildfire. The road is now closed due to threat of debris torrents, so the trailheads for Blue Grouse Basin (Trip 19) and Enterprise Creek / Tanal Lake (Trip 20) are inaccessible.

(5) The trailhead for Sphinx Mtn (Trip 30) is inaccessible because the access spur (off the Gray Creek Pass Road) has been decommissioned.

(6) The trail following Sharp Creek upstream to New Denver Glacier (Trip 13) in Valhalla Provincial Park has been, and will likely remain, unmaintained.

NEW & IMPROVED

(1) In Kaslo, hike the 3.5-km Kaslo River Trail starting at the end of Railroad Ave. It leads upstream to a beautiful, beet-coloured bridge spanning the river. Ask local shops for the brochure/map.

(2) From Kaslo, at the junction of 5th Street and A Avenue (near the post office), drive Highway 31A northwest 23.7 km to the the K&S Rail Trail info kiosk near the Robb bridge, which spans the Kaslo River. From there, hike the rail trail upstream 2.5 km to Retallack. Just beyond the lodge is a short but enchanting Cedar Loop. Retrace your steps to the Robb bridge.

(3) The Kaslo Viewpoint Trail starts near the end of Prospectors Street in Kaslo. The short, steep ascent (155 m in 1.5 km) climbs the forested skirt of Mt. Buchanan to a spectacular vantage of the town, Kootenay Lake, and the mountains beyond. From the junction of 5th Street and A Avenue (near the post office), drive Highway 31A northwest. Pass Highway 31N. At the stoplight where left is 31A to New Denver, turn right onto Washington Street, left onto Water Street, then right at the T-junction. 100 meters farther, go left onto Park Street. Ascend to a T-junction where you’ll see the signed trailhead (right). On foot, immediately bear right, and at 3 minutes fork left.

(4) In Nelson, the Pulpit Rock Trail (Trip 48) has been vastly improved. It used to be a steep, rough route. Now it’s a broad, comfortable, gently-switchbacking path with a dedicated, trailhead parking area.

(5) You’re an experienced backpacker, competent scrambler, and capable cross-country navigator? Send a note to <nomads@hikingcamping.com>. Ask us about the traverse between the Woodbury and Silver Spray cabins in Kokanee Glacier Provincial Park. We’ll send you complete, detailed directions for this three-day trip.

(6) Trailhead access for Haystack Mountain (Trip 32) has improved. New bridges in the Sanca Creek drainage allow you to safely drive all the way to the Kianuko Provincial Park trailhead—17 km from Highway 3A (east shore of Kootenay Lake). This puts the summit within much closer reach.

We just returned from a week-long backcountry research trip in the West Kootenay region of British Columbia, where we were checking access roads, hiking trails, and campgrounds.

As for campgrounds, B.C. is rife with very inviting options—from Vancouver Island to the Coast Mountains, throughout the Okanagan, across the Chilcotin Plateau, and along the west side of the Rockies.

We visited numerous West Kootenay campgrounds and stayed at several.

Provincial Parks are beautiful, but we think they’re expensive. For example, you’ll pay $18 per site/per night at Davis Creek, and $28 per site/per night at Kokanee Creek. Both these provincial-park campgrounds are on Kootenay Lake. They’re beautiful and well maintained. But $28 a night? Ouch.

Our book, Camp Free in B.C. (http://www.hikingcamping.com/camp-free-bc.php), gives directions to 350 free-of-charge campgrounds throughout B.C. It also describes 80 campgrounds where you’ll pay only $10 to $12 per site/per night. We think this is a reasonable price for these more popular campgrounds because they require significant upkeep.

On our drive through the Rocky Mountain Trench (Radium south to Cranbrook), we were happy to find a free-of-charge site at Johnston Lake campground on the Friday of Canada Day weekend. We had the beach all to ourselves.

On Saturday—the busiest camping day of the year in Canada—we found a free-of-charge site at Little Slocan Lake campground.

On Sunday, we found a site at Wragge Beach, on Slocan Lake. It cost $12, but it’s worth it. While there, we met the camp caretaker: Kim Roshinsky. He’s a long-time West Kootenay resident and an avid traveler. His enthusiasm for camping, hiking and fishing is infectious. His curiosity and sense of humour are refreshing. And he does a superb job of making people feel welcome and comfortable yet ensuring they respect the campground and their fellow campers.

We hope you’ll go camping in B.C. this summer. Not just once, but several times. Free campgrounds are numerous. And camping can be deeply revitalizing. You’ll return home soothed by the serenity of nature.

Hi, I ran across your blog while doing some planning for a vacation in the Canadian Rockies this summer. I couldn’t help responding to your entry on volunteer trail maintenance. We are avid hikers in the Seattle area and belong to an organization called the Washington Trails Association. It organizes all kinds of volunteer support, maintenance, and advocacy for trails—you can do anything from give a few dollars, to go on a week-long trail maintenance “vacation.” It’s incredibly successful and wierdly popular. Check it out at http://www.wta.org. It might be a model for something in your neck of the woods.

Cheers, Sara

Craig & Kathy,

Did some thinking as I slogged up and over the snow yesterday and wondered if you’d consider posting this on your blog:

Over the past 3 summers, I have hiked 6 of the Premier Dayhikes described in the Copeland’s book: Don’t Waste Your Time in the Canadian Rockies. I haven’t been disappointed with any of them. Yesterday was no exception as I visited Niles Meadow and had an exceptional view of the Daly Glacier. It was a great day. The condition of the trail takes nothing away from the experience which, consistent with all the dayhikes designated by the Copelands as premier, is outstanding. But the fallen trees across the trail gave me pause to reflect on how much we value our trails and how we are looking after them.

Without knowing the details of the Park’s trail maintenance budget and philosophy, the reality is this trail hasn’t been cleared for years. Several of the fallen trees were old. Some are waist high and hikers have been forced to go off trail. I cleared the small ones I could lift by hand but there are still many left. If I would have known and packed my Swede saw and had extra energy, I could have cut out several of the smaller fallen trees.

So what do us serious hikers from Calgary, Canmore and other places do? Do we spend our energy lobbying Parks Canada? Do we adopt-a-trail ourselves and put something back into something we get so much from? I for one would adopt-a-trail and participate in any training required by Parks Canada. Perhaps someone could encourage that by listing trails and adopters on a website so there is some organization and token recognition. Maybe Parks Canada could hold an annual winter supper for the adopters and give each one of them a copy of the Copeland’s latest book or some other suitable token of appreciation. After a few years, maybe the adopter’s name could be posted at the trailhead. What are your ideas and comments on this? How much do we value our trails and what are we willing to do to have them? I would be interested in your response.

Regards,

Rick Vigrass