Thanks for visiting hikingcamping.com.

Through the summer, we’ve done our best to blog weekly. But we’ll be unable to do so for the next two months. We’ll be climbing the via ferrata in the Italian Dolomiti, then trekking the Grande Randonnée 20 on the French island of Corsica.

Many peaks in the Dolomites have fixed cables, ladders and bridges, allowing otherwise isolated climbing routes to be joined to create longer routes and making them accessible to climbers who, like us, are not exceptionally skilled. “Via ferrata” means “iron way.” The first via ferratas were built in the Dolomite region of northern Italy during the First World War to aid the movement of mountain infantry.

The GR 20 follows the mountainous spine of Corsica. From Calenzana in the north, to Conca in the south, it’s about 180 km (112 mi) long, entails more than 10,000 m (32,800 ft) of elevation gain, and takes about two weeks to complete. It’s widely considered the most demanding long-distance trek in Europe.

We’ll resume blogging in late November. Please check back with us then. We’ll have lots of practical advice and inspiring photos to offer anyone interested in the via ferrata and/or the GR 20.

If you’re contacting us about business—specifically, the titles published by hikingcamping.com—not to worry. Our distribution manager, Theresa, will be here handling our publishing company’s daily operations while we’re away. She’ll promptly ship your book order and gladly respond to any questions or concerns.

Please check our blog again in late November. Shortly thereafter, our new book — Heading Outdoors Eventually Leads Within, Thoughts Inspired by 30,000 Miles on the Trail—will be available. Keep it in mind as a Christmas gift for friends and family who have an affinity for nature. We know they and you will find it unique, meaningful, and beautiful.

Until then…   Walk on.

– Kathy & Craig

The Opinionated Hikers on Patrol for You

The Cinque Terre (the Five Lands) are poignantly picturesque Italian villages on the Mediterranean Sea. Each of the five occupies a headland beneath the Monti Ligure (the Ligurian mountains) just north of the macho port city of La Spezia.

In ancient times, the villages no doubt seemed distinctly separate, almost like islands, because the coast is tortuous and steep here. The Monti Liguri begin as wave-washed cliffs and instantly soar to about 550 m (1804 ft). Though the villagers terraced the sharp slopes so they could grow food, and these terraces made foot travel possible, sailing was the preferred method of transport between the Cinque Terre.

During the past twenty years, however, foot travel between the Cinque Terre has surged in popularity—not with the villagers, but with visitors. The Cinque Terre is now such a famous hiking destination that it attracts non-hiking tourists from all over the world.

The Cinque Terre seemed like a secret 20 years ago when we first hiked here, but they’re certainly no secret now. Yet while hiking the area again last week, it was apparent to us that several important facts about the Cinque Terre are not widely known.

Secret #1
You can drive to, and between, all the Cinque Terre villages.

The romantic myth persists. Many people still believe there are no roads along this rugged coast. They assume that to see the Cinque Terre they must either ride the train between the villages (mostly through tunnels), catch a tourist cruise boat out of Portovenere, or hike.

Actually there’s a fourth option: a rental car. If you’re here to hike, you’ll find having a car greatly increases your flexibility. It will also ensure you see much more of the region than do hikers who walk straight through.

The roads linking the Cinque Terre and accessing each village are sinuous and narrow, but the views they grant are striking. From a car, you often attain commanding views of the villages in context. Plus you traverse the fascinating terrain above them. Best of all, the roads access little-known, secondary Cinque Terre trails that afford superb hiking. (See Secret #3.)

If you’re experienced at driving Europe’s slender, snaking roads, you’ll motor from La Spezia to Riomaggiore (one of the Cinque Terre villages) without difficulty. Just outside La Spezia, you can go left to Portovenere, or right to Riomaggiore.

If you hesitate to drive roads so skinny that cars traveling in opposite directions can pass each other only with great care, then avoid the minor (though still paved) roads. Prime example: the road descending Fosso Canaleito to San Bernadino. Stay on the main road contouring around the top of Fosso Re de Mulino, then descend the larger drainage to Vernazza.

Secret #2
The Cinque Terre has an extensive network of hiking trails.

Hikers have been coming here for so long, ticking off the Cinque Terre villages one after the next without venturing from the main trail, that today almost nobody pauses to ask: Is that all there is? Just one trail?

Between Levanto in the northwest, and Portovenere in the southeast, there are dozens of Cinque Terre trails contouring on terraces at various elevations, plus numerous connecting trails running up and down the mountainsides.

Get the excellent, reliable, 1:25 000 map titled “Riviera Ligure: Le Cinque Terre da La Spezia a Levanto.” It’s published by Studio Cartografico Italiano. It will enable you to plan an exciting, original, Cinque Terre hiking tour. And remember, even if you’re driving a rental car to your starting point, you can also use the local train or mini-buses to link trails or villages and further increase your on-foot options.

Secret #3
The main Cinque Terre trail is not rousingly scenic every step of the way.

For example, the 20-minute section south from Corniglia along the train tracks. Or the long section (starting about 45 minutes out of Portovenere) where for 1.5 hours you’re confined to roads (paved and unpaved) in viewless forest.

Parts of the main trail are very scenic, of course, but tranquility is unlikely. We generally preferred the secondary trails, such as trail 4B to Fossola. You’ll find we’ve listed it below as one of our favourites because it gave us a strong sense for what the region was like before the first tsunami of tourists. These less-frequented-but-still-excellent trails are generally high above the sea, but they provide a magnificent, aerial perspective.

Secret #4
The region’s most spectacular hiking is not associated with the Cinque Terre.

As much as we love the secondary Cinque Terre trails, we prefer the challenging trail that rounds the wild, lonely, outer edge of the Portofino Peninsula.

Portofino is about a 45-minute drive north of the Cinque Terre. It’s a tiny port village near the larger port town of Santa Margherita. Both are pretty enough to make you swoon. Starting in Portofino, you can hike up, then down to the molecule-size harbor hamlet of San Fruttuosso, then up and down and up and down and up to the village of San Rocco, then finally down to the seaside village of Camogli. The section northwest of San Fruttuosso to San Rocco, however, is strictly for strong, experienced, confident hikers who think “steep,” “narrow,” “rough,” and “airy” are invitations rather than warnings.

Secret #5
The Cinque Terre is no secret, as mentioned above.

Crowd-free hiking is readily available throughout Europe—as long as you don’t follow the crowd. (See our previous post, “Hiking in Crowded Europe.”) But you’re definitely following the crowd when you come to the Cinque Terre.

The onslaught begins in late March and continues through October. We wouldn’t even consider hiking the Cinque Terre then. You’d be constantly passing other hikers, or being passed by them. You’d always have to wait or jostle for photo-ops. Find a quiet, pretty place to rest or eat lunch? Forget it. You’d have to post a sentry before stopping to pee.

November through mid-March is the only time your experience here won’t be sabotaged by crowds. Even then, it’s best to avoid hiking on weekends or holidays, because Italians also flock to the Cinque Terre.

Secret #6
Hiking the entire Cinque Terre end-to-end might be a mistake.

Completion freaks will argue with that. And if you value what you accomplish more than you value what you experience en route, they’re right, you should hike the Cinque Terre straight through. But we’ve done both. The first time, we hiked the way we’d been told to: zip, boom, arrivederci. The second time, we hiked in our idiosyncratic, looping, exploratory style, up and down the mountainsides. The second time was much richer: more surprising, more intriguing, more beautiful, more fun.

You have many alternatives. Consider basing yourself in one of the Cinque Terre villages. Vernazza has the most dramatic setting and is the most photogenic. It’s the Cinque Terre poster village. Manarola and Riomaggiore are also appealing, though Rio is busier. Wherever you make your temporary home, you can use the frequent, local train or buses to start and/or end each day.

On our last trip, we based ourselves in Bocca di Magra, past the Bay of Poets, on the east shore of the Montemarcello Peninsula. The advantage of Magra is that it’s midway between the Cinque Terre and the Alpi Apuane Mountains, should you want to hike in both. Magra is also reasonably close to cities such as Pisa and Lucca, which we recommend you visit. The disadvantage of Magra is the two-hour round trip (through La Spezia) each day you go to the Cinque Terre. Driving the road that hugs the port, however, we found it a smooth, easy commute.

Secret #7
Hiking the Cinque Terre is now like driving the Italian autostrade: an expensive, pay-as-you-go privilege.

The Cinque Terre are considered a national park. That wasn’t the case when we first hiked here, so we were curious to see the affects of park status. Our conclusion: no change, except for goddamn fees.

At each end of the most popular sections of the main trail, you’ll find wooden booths where national park toll-trolls lie in wait, demanding you purchase a “Cinque Terre card” for five Euro. It entitles one person to hike anywhere on the Cinque Terre for one day.

We’re so resentful of fees that are obviously cash grabs that, out of principle, we often find creative ways to circumvent them. Not only does this save us money, it usually results in a much more interesting experience. Here, it motivated us to discover all the other Cinque Terre trails where there are no toll booths and the hiking fees are unenforced.

We also discovered that if you start hiking early or late (before 8 a.m. or after 6 p.m. in March) you can hike the main Cinque Terre trail fee-free because the toll booths are unmanned. Once you’re past the booth, no worries. The toll-trolls only accost hikers entering a particular section. If you’re exiting past them, they ignore you, because they assume you presented or purchased your Cinque Terre card at the other end.

Bear in mind that, in typical Italian style, the Cinque Terre toll-trolls are casual about their hours. So assess the opportunities; it’s possible you can hike fee-free starting later in the morning or earlier in the evening than we’ve suggested. We also assume the toll-trolls’ hours lengthen along with the daylight in summer and shorten come winter.

Here are our favourite Cinque Terre trails, plus more details about the Portofino Peninsula trail.

Campiglia – Fossola
12 km (7.5 mi) / gain & loss 272 m (892 ft) / 4 to 5 hours

Drive northwest of Portovenere to Campiglia. Park here, at 400 m (1312 ft). Hike trail 4B northwest, passing two junctions where you ignore paths descending to Schiara. You can detour to Schiara later, as described below.

For now, continue right, through forest, on trail 4. You’ll see parcours exercise equipment near Palestra nel Verde. Immediately after passing Santuario Antonio and a picnic area at 508 m (1666 ft), go left, descending an ancient, cobbled path— trail 4C—to Fossola. Intersect a small road at 300 m (984 ft). Continue descending through the village, past garden terraces. A good place to rest is on the bench at the chapel below the locals’ parking lot.

Just below the chapel, go left on trail 4B (pronounced “Quattro Bee” in Italian). Follow it southeast, contouring on very narrow, terrace walls. At the 270-m (886-ft) junction with Monesteroli, you have the option of descending another 100 m (328 ft).

Continue ascending trail 4B to the fountain of Nozano. Go right toward Campiglia. Or, very soon, opt for a detour: descending 170 m / 558 ft on trail 4 to Schiara. It’s on a dramatic promontory. But before lengthening the trip in that direction, consider that you must already ascend 164 m (538 ft) from Fossola back to Campiglia.

Volastra / Corniglia / Manarola
13 km (8 mi) / gain 360 m (1181 ft) / 4 to 5 hours

From Riomaggiore, drive the main road northwest. Pass the turnoff to Manarola. Park alongside the road near Volastra. (The parking lot is for residents only. We parked in the first pullout on the left, a couple hundred meters beyond the village.)

From the church in Volastra, at 335 m (1100 ft), follow trail 6 D northwest. It contours a steep, terraced mountainside and grants views southwest to Manarola.

At 4.5 km (2.8 mi) reach the 370-m (1214-ft) highpoint and a junction with trail 7A. Descend 7A to Corniglia. Walk the unpleasant stretch of the main Cinque Terre trail past the train station and along the tracks. After 1 km (0.6 mi) it’s more pleasant. The wide trail is then beside the sea and only 10 meters above it.

Reach Manarola in 3 km (1.8 mi). From the parking area just above the village, follow signs on the right side of the road: trail 6 to Groppo and Volastra. The final ascent to Volastra is on a beautiful, ancient, stairstepping, cobbled path.

Above Vernazza / di Soviore / Monterossa
18 km (11.2 mi) / gain 542 m (1778 ft) / 5 to 7 hours

Drive the main Cinque Terre road northwest, passing the turnoffs for Riomaggiore and Manarola. From the dwellings at Foce di Drignana, drive the descending road signed for Vernazza. In about 2 km (1.2 mi), park in the grassy pullout at the tip of a tight hairpin turn, at 400 m (1312 ft). It affords a spectacular view of Vernazza below and the sea beyond.

While admiring the village, consider that this hike will require you to ascend from Vernazza to this hairpin-turn trailhead at the end of the day. Note the broad, switchbacking, stone path rising past the mausoleum. That’s the route. It’s not as taxing as it might appear.

Initially hike west on trail 8B toward Madonna di Soviore for 4.5 km (2.8 mi). This section is a narrow, dirt trail that generally contours and affords glorious views. Upon reaching the road at il Termine, elevation 542 m (1778 ft), you could return the way you came, but we urge you to continue.

Proceed left (northwest) on the road for 1.3 km (0.8 mi). Watch left for signed trail 9 descending left. It’s just before the Soviore nunnery—a huge, rectangular, pink building at 465 m (1525 ft). Walk across the nunnery terrace, then turn left again, still on trail 9. A long descent ensues to Monterosso al Mare.

From Monterosso, walk the main Cinque Terre trail to Vernazza. (fee required, as explained above in Secret 7, unless you arrive after 5 pm). You could also opt to train to Vernazza. The train runs about every 20 minutes and costs about Euro 1.30.

From Vernazza’s main piazza at the harbour, a stairway climbs through a tunnel generally north. Ascend it, then turn right. Find the stone path climbing past the mausoleum to San Bernardo. This ancient, well-constructed path climbs gently but steadily all the way to the paved road above. Strong hikers will complete the ascent in 45 minutes. Others might take 1.5 hours.

Turn left into a playground and picnic area beside a chapel. Then ascend a few more switchbacks on trail to intersect the paved road. Go left, round a corner, and in about 300 m (330 yd) arrive at the hairpin-turn trailhead.

Portofino Peninsula
14 km (8.7 mi) / gain 800 m (2625 ft) / 4.5 to 7 hours

Hiking around the outer edge of the Portofino Peninsula is not for the inexperienced or acrophobic. Despite starting in the lovely, eminently civilized village of Portofino, and ending in the equally cultured village of Camogli, this trail dwindles to a very rough, steep route traversing steep cliffs through wild, lonely terrain. It requires strength, stamina, and skill.

You’d prefer a moderate, two- to three-hour hike? Follow the directions below only as far as San Fruttuosso, then catch the shuttle boat back to Portofino.

Regardless of your hiking intentions, from Santa Margherita, drive the coast road toward Portofino. Park at (or beside the road near) Castello. From the Castello parking lot, walk out to the road, turn right, and within a few meters find the signed, cobbled path to Portofino. It rises above the road then contours the hillside for about 2 km (1.2 mi).

In Portofino’s harbourside piazza, turn your back to the water, and angle right to pick up the path (marked by two, red circles) ascending past the church. Go in the direction of San Sebastian. Don’t let the scooters and three-wheeled mini-trucks fool you. This does eventually become a genuine trail.

Follow frequent signs for San Fruttuosso, basically west-northwest. About 45 minutes from Portofino, after passing terraces and a house on a promontory at 235 m (771 ft), follow the dirt path contouring the high, steep slope to Base 0.

About 10 minutes farther, drop to cross a stream, ascend, then contour again. In another 35 minutes, from a 260-m (853-ft) ridgecrest, begin a steep, switchbacking descent (still on good trail) through forest to San Fruttuoso. It’s a tiny harbour where a few buildings cluster around a beautiful church.

To continue hiking to Camogli via the outer edge of the peninsula, bear left in San Fruttuoso, pass the church, and resume on the double-red-circle trail. Tight switchbacks ascend sharply from the sea. In about 40 minutes, crest a ridge at 275 m (900 ft). From here on, the quality of the trail diminishes and the excitement increases.

Descend to 60 m (197 ft) in Vallone Cala dell’Oro, then ascend southwest in woods to 190 m (623 ft). In this 1.5-km (0.9-mi) stretch the route crosses gnarly outcrops as it aims for La Baracca, on Punta del Buco. Chains bolted to rock offer assistance on the exposed sections. Accept the offer; hang on. A fall here could result in traumatic injury.

Descend again to 80 m (262 ft), then climb back up to 200 m (656 ft). The route traverses yet another cliff-bound gorge, where you must remain cool and balanced while descending and ascending very steep, rough ground. Beyond, negotiate still more exposed sections. All are strung with safety chains that you can and should cling to while traversing.

Moving quickly, it took us about 1.5 hours to hike from San Fruttuoso—through all the challenging terrain—to the first picnic table near the Batterie. Some people, however, might require 3 hours to safely cover that distance.

From the Batterie, an increasingly comfortable trail contours north-northeast to the village of San Rocco. This is where you re-enter civilization. It’s possible to catch a bus there or in Ruta (the next town northeast). Time and energy permitting, however, continue hiking. Follow the steps descending to Camogli. Catch a train or bus back to Santa Margherita. Then catch the bus to your vehicle near Portofino.

Our winter in the mountains along the Mediterranean will soon end. We’ve been in Spain’s Costa Blanca, on the island of Mallorca, in the Alpes Maritime near Vence, France, and now in Liguria, Italy. We’ve hiked on good-weather days, worked on bad-weather days. The entire experience has been deeply gratifying. “Precious times,” we keep saying to each other.

Living in Europe for an extended period was at the top of our life list. But now that we’ve achieved it, we’re not crossing it off. Doing it again—in different locations, preferably in summer—will remain a compelling goal for us. No matter how many times we return to Europe, it will be impossible for us to exhaust the hiking opportunities here, or satisfy our appetite for pursuing them.

Our recent home base has been Colletta, Italy. It’s a 15-minute drive inland from the coastal town of Albenga, roughly midway between Nice and Genoa. Typical of Ligurian hilltop villages, Colletta is ancient. And, like many Italian hamlets, it was eventually abandoned. But what makes Colletta unusual, perhaps unique in the world, is that it was rescued from dereliction and transformed into a modern, high-tech retreat: the “borgo telematico.”

Colletta was founded during the 1200s. It briefly flourished, then waned. Weakened by agricultural decline, wracked by plagues, wars and earthquakes, Colletta’s population dwindled. By the mid 1900s, the village was deserted. It remained a ghostly shell until a group of investors began purchasing it in 1993. It took them two years to buy each individual home, because they first had to locate the owners, all of whom had departed the village, some of whom no longer lived in Italy.

Though the developers hired a famous architect from Genoa, Giancarolo de Carlo, it took five years to procure the necessary construction permits for Colletta’s resurrection. But it seems that was valuable incubation time for de Carlo, who began thinking of the village as a crustacean that grew slowly, adapting itself to its own existing cells, merging in all directions. The challenge, as he saw it, was to reconstruct dwellings of various sizes without altering the genetic code that governed the growth of the original organism.

The “cyber village” or “e-village” concept was a visionary one for 1996, because people were not yet using the internet the way we do today. But Colleta’s technological sinew is just one of several appealing qualities. The village itself is gorgeous. From a distance it looks much as it might have in ancient times—if it had been constructed all at once and were freshly completed just prior to your arrival. And Colleta’s setting is wonderful. It perches on a jutting promontory, flanked by a river and a stream (both audible), surrounded by terraced, lushly treed slopes (olives, oaks, chestnuts), beneath towering, 1200-m (3936-ft) ridges whose vertical crags attract rock climbers.

“Strange and idyllic” is how Kathy describes Colletta. We’ve been here three weeks, and we’re still marveling at it. Of all the places we’ve stayed during our winter sojourn in Europe, this is certainly the strangest and most idyllic.

Colletta comprises about 70 apartments, an osteria (tavern), a swimming pool long enough to please lap swimmers, a sauna, manicured grounds, and an office for the village concierge. What Colletta doesn’t have is vehicle traffic. No road pierces the car-free village—everyone enters and exits on foot—but there is an adjacent parking arcade. Visit www.colletta.it to learn more and see photos of Colletta apartments available for rent.

Best of all, Colletta is perfectly situated for hiking. Our first morning here, we awoke to a blue sky, shouldered our packs, walked out the front door and onto a trail ascending 700 m (2296 ft) to the ridgecrest visible from our window. Numerous other trails, steep and lengthy, begin a short drive away. These aren’t mere strolls. They’re sufficiently challenging and rewarding for strong, serious hikers. Many remain snow-free in winter. Others, vaulting over much bigger summits a bit farther inland, are hikeable by early summer.

Colletta de Castelbianco (its full name) is a primo destination for a winter hiking holiday. For visual evidence, go to the Photos/Videos page of our website and click on “Italy.” The first six photos are of Colletta. Kathy shot photos 7 through 20 either while we were hiking or during our urban explorations elsewhere in Liguria.

Below are some of the trails we recommend for your winter stay in Colletta. But before you go hiking, you’ll need a map (“carta dei sentieri” in Italian). We used these:

• Kompass 641 / Alassio – Imperia / 1:50 000

• Studio Naturalistico SV-4 / Ceriale, Alenga, Alassio e Laigueglia  /  Sistema Ambientale Poggio Grande / 1:25 000

• Istituto Geografico Centrale #15 / Albenga, Alassio, Savona /  1:50 000

None of these maps is ideal. All contain inaccuracies. But we found the Kompass map more reliable and easier to read.

Now, our suggested hikes…

Zuccarello to Castelvecchio di Rocca Barbena

9-km (5.5-mi) round trip / 332-m (1090-ft) gain / 2 to 3 hours

Traverse olive-grove terraces on this historic stone path between two intriguing medieval villages. Zuccarello has a colourful  porticoed street and a beautiful bridge. The ascent is so gradual it seems only about 33% of the actual elevation gain. Enjoy wandering the intriguing warren of ancient lanes in the village of Castelvecchio.

By Vehicle

From the A10 highway, exit for Albenga. Follow signs toward Garessio and Castelbianco. Drive Road 582 northwest from Albenga. Just beyond Cisano sui Neva, where left leads to Castlebianco di Colletta, go right (north) 4 km (2.5 mi). Turn right, into the parking lot immediately before Zuccarello, at 118 m (387 ft).

On Foot

Walk through the village. Before exiting the far side, turn right (east) onto a lane where you see red-and-white paint blazes indicating a trekking route. Ascend above the village on an ancient trail.

It climbs east 0.5 km (0.3 mi), nearly to the namesake castle on a promontory above the village. Just beyond but still below the castle, intersect an unpaved road. Cross it, bearing left. Don’t go right toward Vecersio or San Bernardo.

Hike generally north. Pass San Giuseppe church at 2.5 km (1.6 mi), 367 m (1205 ft). Continue 1.3 km (0.8 km) to the church at Castelvecchio di Rocca Barbena, at 450 m (1476 ft). Return the same lovely way.

Rio Della Valle under Rocca Barbena

8-km (5-mi) round trip / 317-m (1040-ft) gain / 2 to 3 hours

An easy, historic trail runs the length of this deep, narrow canyon. You’ll hike just above the Rio della Valle, which flows over beautiful bedrock, has many cascades and pools, and provides constant water music. This is an ideal place to hike during hot weather.

By Vehicle

Drive the coastal S1 highway to Borghetto S. Spirito, then turn inland toward Toirano. Entering Toirano, reset your trip odometer when you see the name of the town in gold letters on a stone wall. Continue 4 km (2.5 mi).

If you’re descending the road from Carpe, continue 2 km (1.2 mi) east of the bridge at Barabba.

From either approach, park on the east side of the bridge spanning the Rio della Valle, at 183 m (600 ft). (Maps indicate this as Salto del Lupo). There’s an info sign here.

On Foot

Hike north, upstream, on a stretch of gravel road, then a stone path, and finally a good trail through deciduous forest. Near sign #2, a spur ascends steeply northeast to a pinnacle—worth a detour. Though the trail ascends to the highway near Bardinardo, you can turn around at 4 km (2.5 mi), 500 m (1640 ft), feeling you know the canyon.

Poggio Croce Ceresa / Mont Pesalto

9-km (5.5-mi) round trip / 316-m (1036-ft) gain / 3 hours

Drive past the fascinating medieval village of Castelvecchio. Park on a ridgecrest above. Then follow a trail affording constant views as it rounds the head of a plunging valley. Proceed on a gentle, open ridge where you’ll overlook the Pennavaire Valley, Albenga, and the Mediterranean. It’s possible to extend this hike by continuing out Mont Acuto.

By Vehicle

Drive Road 582 northwest from Albenga. Just beyond Cisano sui Neva, proceed right (north) on 582 up the Neva River Valley to Castelvecchio di Rocca Barbena. Continue ascending tight switchbacks to the hamlet of Vercersio, at 500 m (1640 ft). Drive 2.5 km (1.6 mi) farther to where the road makes a tight zigzag south, then north. Turn right onto the initially-paved secondary road signed for Santuario Monte Croce. Immediately left is a pullout. Park here, at 520 m (1706 ft).

On Foot

Walk this secondary road about 50 m/yd. Look right for a signposted trail departing the southwest side of the road. This exciting trail contours just below the road (so you’ll neither see nor hear passing cars), and on the north side of Rio Auzza Canyon. You’ll be hiking southeast, curving under Poggio Grande, to reach a 710-m (2330-ft) knoll: Poggio Croce Ceresa. Just beneath it, cross a dirt road that goes left, connecting Poggio Croce Ceresa and the Santuario. You could walk back that way after returning from Mont Pesalto.

You’ll have seen an enticing ridge southeast, on the south side of Valle Iba. Head for that trail in open grass. Descend to 650 m (2132  ft), then ascend to 686-m (2250-ft) Mont Pesalto.

Return to the dirt road you previously crossed. Follow it to Santuario Monte Croce, at 749 m (2457 ft). Just above is 802-m (2631-ft) Poggio Grande. If you have time and energy, or you return here another day, hike the trail east from Santuario Monte Croce. It follows the ridgecrest 2.7 km (1.7 mi) to 747-m (2450-ft) Mont Acuto. It drops all the way to the sea, so turn around when you feel like it—unless you’ve arranged a shuttle.

Grotte di Toirano to Pietro dei Monti

11-km (6.8 mi) round trip / 850-m (2788-ft) gain / 4 to 5.5 hours

If caves appeal to you, tour the one at Toirano. People say it’s impressive. But we prefer sunshine and altitude, so we skipped the cave and instead hiked the mountain above it. The trail climbs among dramatic cliffs, ascending steadily through a creek drainage to a pass. From there, you can summit San Pietro dei Monti. Or, for an easier hike, stay on the main trail to the clearing above San Pietrino chapel and gaze out across the Mediterranean.

By Vehicle

From the A10 highway, exit for Borghetto Santo Spirito. At Toirano, about 3 km (1.9 mi) inland from Borghetto, follow signs to the Grotte di Toirano, at 60 m (197 ft). Ascend to the huge parking lot in front of the cave entrance and gift shop.

On Foot

Go through the gate (hikers don’t have to pay), pass the grotto, and follow the marked trail northwest. Be aware. Several minor trails access climbing routes, and it’s easy to wander. Stay on the main trail. It drops slightly before ascending the right side of the rocky gorge. Don’t go right (northeast) on the scant route signed “Bellevista.”

At 1.5 km (0.9 mi) the steep trail curves southeast beneath cliffs. Near 3.5 km (2.2 mi) reach a fork in a small saddle. Ideally, go left (north) to ascend San Pietro dei Monti. After zigzagging northwest, the trail reaches the summit at 5.5 km (3.4 mi), 891 m (2923 ft).

Your other option is to continue on the main trail generally southeast about 20 minutes to a grassy clearing above San Pietrino chapel, where you’ll overlook coastal towns and the sea beyond. From here, the Sentiero Terre Alte leads north, offering many days of trekking.

Vignolo toward Mt. Galero

10-km (6.2-mi) round trip / 800-m (2624-ft) gain / 4 to 5 hours

You’re unlikely to see anyone hiking here until summer. Yet these south-facing slopes—where wind from the sea helps the sun melt the snowpack—invite you to ascend surprisingly high in winter. Had we started earlier in the day when we hiked here in mid-February, we could have crested Mt. Galero’s summit ridge. And that was shortly after a couple days of snowfall that locals described as a “freak event.” Galero is a prominent landmark, visible from many trails throughout the region. Here you’ll attain close-up views of Galero’s south face and pinnacled cirque. By late May, it’s possible you could follow the long-distance “Alta Via dei Monti Liguri” northeast along Galero’s summit ridge to the top of the 1708-m (5602-ft) mountain. In summer, strong, experienced hikers can complete an 8- to 10-hour traverse, starting here on the west side, vaulting over Galero, then descending the southwest ridge toward Mont Alpe, and finally dropping to Colletta di Castelbianco.

By Vehicle

From the A10 highway, take the exit for Albenga. Follow signs toward Garessio and Castelbianco. Drive Road 582 northwest to Cisano sul Neva. Just beyond, bear left (northwest) on Road SP14. Pass the turnoff for Castelbianco di Colletta. Pass the village of Nasino, proceed 1 km (0.6 mi) farther, then turn right. Switchbacking, ascend northeast to the parking lot at the tiny (mostly abandoned) village of Vignolo, at 467 m (1531 ft).

On Foot

Ascend the walkway through the village. Following paint daubs, turn left and ascend north, out of the village. The trail rises above the east side of Rio Gallinaro. The trail intersects an unpaved road at 690 m (2263 ft), near the San Pietro picnic area. Ascend the road, then trail, then road again. (The trail shortcuts the switchbacking road and saves you significant time.) Cross a bridge near Ravinazzo (a few houses) at 980 m (3215 ft), then bear right, exit the road, and ascend on trail.

In two hours, at 1260 m (4133 ft), reach the flank of a subsidiary ridge. It provides access to the west ridge of Mt. Galero. The peak’s south face dominates the view. Continue as high as daylight and the snowpack allow.

Mont Alpe (direct ascent)

13-km (8-mi) round trip / 820-m (2690-ft) gain / 5 to 6 hours

Enjoy a little-used but excellent trail ascending the far eastern flank of Mt. Galero. You’ll attain views west to the sea, you’ll overlook villages below, and you’ll see Castell ‘Ermo & Mont Nero across the Pennavaire Valley.

By Vehicle

From the A10 highway, exit for Albenga. Follow signs for Garessio and Castelbianco. You’ll be on Road 582 to Cisano sul Neva. At the junction just past Cisano, go left on Road SP14. About 7 km (4.3 mi) farther, turn right and ascend to Castlebianco di Colletta. Park in the public parking lot immediately above the residents’ lot. Elevation: 260 m (853 ft).

On Foot

Descend a trail 25 m (82 ft) below the north side of the village to cross Oresine Creek. Then ascend the zigzagging trail to the paved road. Go right about five minutes to Veravo, at 330 m (1083 ft). Enter the village. At its northeast end, watch for the red-and-white paint blazes indicating a trekking route. Ascend through oak and chestnut forest on a well-marked, but narrow trail switchbacking up to the 945-m (3100-ft) pass. Then ascend right (southeast) 100 m (361 ft) to the summit of 1055-m (3460-ft) Mont Alpe for a 360° panorama.

Mont Alpe (via ridge traverse)

15.8-km (9.8-mi) loop / 905-m (2970-ft) gain / 5 to 6 hours

You must be skilled at routefinding and comfortable on steep terrain (Class 1 scrambling) to safely complete this one. If you are, you’ll love it. Ascending above Oresine Creek, the path can be deeply covered by leaves, but it’s easy to follow until you’re quite high. Then it’s very faint. Just below your initial goal—the ridgecrest—there’s only the sketchiest hint of a route, easily overlooked. This is where mountain-sense born of experience is required. After the final ascent among rock outcrops, intersect the ridgecrest trail. From here on, you can again enjoy relatively carefree hiking on a distinct trail.

By Vehicle

Follow the directions for the shorter Mont Alpe hike described above. Park in Colletta’s public lot, at 260 m (853 ft).

On Foot

Ascend the road 0.8 km (0.5 mi) north. Reach the village of Oresine in about ten minutes. At the north end of the village, find the marked trail ascending left (northwest). Follow the ancient, broad, cobbled path through oak and chestnut forest upstream beside Oresine Creek. Pass several cascades and pools.

About 45 minutes along, the path diminishes. It might be covered with leaves, but you’ll find it’s still decipherable. Paint blazes on tree trunks are helpful. Keep ascending within view of the stream or, when if it’s dry, the streambed. Follow the gorge leading northwest.

Above the stream, keep ascending the forested drainage beneath escarpments. Your goal is the ridgecrest. About two hours from Colletta, strong hikers will surmount 1140-m (3740-ft) Passo di Gerisola at 5 km (3 mi), just beneath Mont delle Gettine. Turn right (southeast) here and follow the ridgecrest trail. It stays just beneath (south of) the crest for 3.5 km (2.2 mi) to reach a 1035-m (3395-ft) summit in about 45 minutes.

Descend 0.6 km (0.4 mi) to a 945-m (3100-ft) pass (the same one attained on the shorter Mont Alpe hike described above). Either ascend southeast 0.8 km (0.5 mi) to the 1055-m (3460-ft) summit of Mont Alpe, or descend the obvious trail right.

Switchbacks ease the steep descent back to Colletta. Reach Veravo in 3 km (1.8 mi). On the paved road immediately below the village, turn right. About five minutes farther, turn left, off the road, onto the signposted trail descending to Colletta, which is visible below.

Castell ‘Ermo & Mont Nero

15 km (9.3 mi) one way with hitchhike / 1180-m / 3870-ft) gain / 5 to 7 hours

In Colletta it’s impossible, unless you’re utterly unaware, not to gaze up at Castell ‘Ermo and Mont Nero. These are the craggy peaks immediately across the valley. It’s also impossible, if you’re a hiker, to resist the urge to surmount these peaks and hike the long ridgeline linking them and continuing much of the way toward Albenga.

By Vehicle

First, here’s where to park your vehicle so it’s waiting for you at the end of the day.

Drive from Colletta toward Albenga. Immediately before (north of) the junction of Roads SP14 and 582 (where left leads to Zuccarello), turn right to enter the west side of Cisano.

Or, from the Albenga exit on highway A10, follow signs for Garessio and Castelbianco. Drive Road 582 northwest to  Cisano sui Neva. Immediately after the junction where Road 582 goes right to Zuccarello, turn left to enter the west side of Cisano.

From either approach, drive across the bridge and along Rio Pennavaire, then through Cisano. Ascend on Crocere to the Conscente church, at 96 m (315 ft). Park here, then descend 75 m/yd back to the junction of Roads SP14 and 582. Hitchhike northwest 9 km (5.6 mi) up the Pennavaire Valley, past Colletta, to the borgo, just southeast of Nasino village. (Catching a ride is easy, particularly on weekends, because Colletta is a popular starting point for climbers.) Ask your benefactor to drop you near the small bridge. There’s a blue, metal sign on the left side of the road here.

On Foot

Ascend to and through the hamlet. Quickly pass the last house and its garden. Continue on a good trail leading south, up the Rio del Borgo drainage. At 5 km (3 mi) reach Col d’Onzo at 840 m (2755 ft). Unfortunately, a dirt road surmounts this ridgecrest from the gentler Onzo Valle. Picnic tables will tempt you to lunch here, but you’ll get a better view about 20 minutes farther, where you can dine on the lawn beside a chapel.

From the picnic tables, proceed up the unpaved road for five minutes, then veer left onto trail. It gently ascends to the chapel, which is just below Castell’Ermo. A spur detours to the pinnacled, 1094-m (3588-ft) summit.

Begin the ridgewalk by descending 100 m (328 ft), then ascend about 200 m (656 ft) to the summit of Mont Nero at 981 m (3218 ft). From here on, you’ll occasionally see the option of a descending shortcut trail that will save you from having to plod the tediously switchbacking road that follows most of the crest.

Hike southeast over 923-m (3027-ft) Mont Pendjno, 858-m (2814-ft) Montenero, then 646-m (2119-ft) Croce di Arnasco. At 7 km (4.3 mi), the trail intersects the road. Follow the road to a fortification with a brick moat, at 546 m (1790 ft). Skirt it on the right, then look left for the narrow trail descending sharply to the Conscente church, where your car is parked. This descent is the most challenging section of an otherwise moderate hike.

Monte More

24-km (15-mi) round trip / 774-m (2540-ft) gain / 6 to 7.5 hours

Northwest of Imperia is the village of Taggia. Slightly north and east of Taggia is a high, bare, stony ridge running north-northeast for about 30 km (19 mi). What we describe here is short section of that ridge. It’s hikeable year-round. Between 1149-m (3770-ft) Mont Faudo (south), and 1181-m (3874-ft) Mont Moro (north), you’ll see the awesome work of the Contadini who hundreds of years ago built stone walls to create agricultural terraces. You’ll also see well-preserved caselle—ancient pastoral dwellings built of slate. The caselle are reason enough to hike here. They’re marvelous. One has an intact, conical roof utterly devoid of supporting beams.

By Vehicle

Exit the autostrade at Imperia Ovest (West), signed for Dolcedo. Drive about 7 km (4.3 mi) northwest to Dolcedo. Continue north to Prela, then follow the road left. It zigzags up to Valloria, at 407 m (1335 ft). It’s known for the 70 paintings by various artists on doors throughout the village. They’re amateurish, wildly overrated, but viewing them is an amusing way to begin a hike.

On Foot

Walk to the top of Valloria and the San Giuseppe chapel. Pick up the trail heading south, through mixed woodland punctuated by enormous chestnut trees. At 1.5 km (1 mile), atop the ridge, go right (west) ascending to a signed junction at 6 km (3.7 mi). Go right, toward Colla d’Oggia, on a narrow path through grass. The ascent soon steepens. After ten minutes’ labour, intersect the main path at 1000 m (3280 ft), on the ridge between Mont Faudo (south) and Mont Moro (north). In another ten minutes, under the knoll of 1129-m (3705-ft) Mt. Arbozzaro, you’ll see the slate dwellings. By now you’ve also attained views over the west side of the ridge into a deep valley and out to the Alpes Maritime on the Italian-French border. For a shorter hike of 14 km (8.7 mi), turnaround here.

2 km (1.3 mi) farther north along the ridge, reach Passo di Villa Talla at 9 km (5.6 mi), 1096 m (3595 ft). Ascend a bit more to summit 1181-m (3874-ft) Mont Moro at 12 km (7.4 mi).

Return the way you came. Ignore a small sign for Valloria, marking an ancient, stone path that descends a subsidiary ridge east. It does not lead to Valloria. We took it and ended up dropping to Novelli, at 521 m (1710 ft), just above Tavole, which required us to walk the paved road 3.5 km (2.2 mi) back to Valloria. Much better to retrace your steps on the trail you originally ascended.

Hiking in the mountains along the Mediterranean coast this winter (see previous posts) has reminded us that North Americans cling to a uniquely narrow definition of hiking.

In the U.S. and Canada, hikers expect to depart civilization at the trailhead and remain severed from it for the duration of their hike. Anything less than pristine wilderness, they believe, sullies the experience. In Europe, civilization is often integral to hiking. European hikers don’t expect to always leave civilization behind; they know they’ll encounter it at least occasionally. This doesn’t disappoint them; they appreciate it.

The majority of European hiking trails are historic. Outside the high Alps, many trails are on terraces held in place by ancient stone walls. Others are cobbled for long distances. European trails frequently pass, or grant views of, villages, castles, and myriad structures that are either still used or are now in ruins. Sometimes European trails briefly merge with roads, even paved roads. At higher elevations, most trails link huts or refuges, where hikers who’ve reserved ahead will have everything they need waiting for them: a hearty meal, a comfortable bed, and perhaps a hot shower.

So is hiking inferior in Europe? In our opinion, no. We love hiking here. The European definition of “hiking,” which embraces rather than spurns civilization, allows far more opportunities to hike. It can even make hiking more intriguing and rewarding. Spiderwebbing networks of trails in Europe allow you to tailor each trip to your circumstances, sometimes on the fly. Loops, in which you never retrace a step, are frequently possible. Here, trailheads disperse rather than funnel hikers.

North America and Europe are as different—geographically, historically, culturally—as they are distant. North America, with its vast tracts of wilderness, allows hikers the luxury of insisting that civilization and hiking be mutually exclusive. And many European hikers travel to North America to immerse themselves in “pure nature.” But relatively few hikers from North America reciprocate. They wince at the thought of hiking in “crowded Europe.” We believe their assumptions of Europe are inaccurate, and their view of hiking is blinkered.

We’ve devoted our lives to hiking. The wilds of North America are our natural habitat. Our home in the Canadian Rockies backs onto a mountainside frequented by grizzly bears, cougars, and elk. Yet the months we’ve hiked in Europe—ascending mule tracks through olive groves and medieval hamlets to mountaintops crowned with shrines, frequently greeting our fellow hikers en route—and the months we’ve backpacked in North America—through remote mountains and obscure canyons where we were utterly alone—have been equally joyful.

Europe continues wrestling with the most thuggish winter weather it’s seen in more than a decade. Most of the continent was head-dropped* in December, splashed* in January, and is now on the verge of tapping out.***

But we’ve stayed close to the Mediterranean for the past couple months: in Spain’s Costa Blanca Mountains, on the Spanish Island of Mallorca (south of Valencia), and now in France, on the Cote d’Azur. Though the weather has been unusually cold and rainy for this palm-fringed region, it has still allowed us to hike more days than not. And we’ve done it in relative comfort. Compared to a typical winter back home in the Canadian Rockies, it’s been luxurious here.

Our current abode is the ancient city of Vence, slightly inland from Cap d’Antibe, Cannes, and Nice. In a country rife with ancient villages and towns that are certifiably gorgeous, Vence is a gem. Our apartment is literally on the wall that once deterred would-be assailants from ransacking the original village. When we look out our window, we can peer up at the foothills of the Alpes Maritime rising immediately above us, or we can gaze down-valley toward the Med. We’re within a couple-minute walk of numerous pâtisseries and boulangeries d’artisan (pastry shops and artisan bakeries). We’re virtually next door to the cultural center, where we sat front row while a superb jazz quartet performed a brilliant homage to Antônio Jobim, the Grammy Award-winning Brazilian songwriter, composer, arranger, singer, and pianist/guitarist. And all around us, in every direction, are hiking trails. We are as happy as we can be, regardless of the weather.

If a winter hiking holiday appeals to you, we recommend Vence, France. You’ll find lots of accommodation options on www.homeaway.com. After arriving in Vence, go to one of the tabacs (small shops selling tabacco products, newspapers, magazines, etc.) and buy the IGN 1: 25 000 topo maps titled “ET 3642” and “ET 3643.” You’ll also find IGN topo maps at Carrefour hypermarkets along the Cote d’Azur.

Compared to Spain’s Costa Blanca and Mallorca’s Serra de Tramuntana, the mountains of the Cote d’Azur are more heavily treed, with less exposed rock, so they’re not as dramatic. But they’re beautiful and intriguing nonetheless. And they compensate by offering a vastly more extensive trail network, better maintained trails, and superior trail signage. Walking and hiking are more ingrained in French culture. And French tourism organizations understand that trails are a vital asset. As a result, you can expect to see excellent signage at trailheads and trail junctions, plus painted blazes en route. Hiking here can be physically challenging but is never a mental chore.

The following Cote d’Azur trails, all within easy reach of Vence, kept us striding eagerly. We’ve posted photos of several of them among the first 30 images under “France” on the Photos/Videos page of our website.

Circuit de Cavillore
2- to 3-hour loop gaining 300 m (984 ft)
Starting just above the beautiful perched village of Gourdon at 740 m (2427 ft), a well-constructed, switchbacking trail provides an easy, scenic introduction to the area.

Circuit du Castellet
3-hour loop gaining 450 m (1476 ft) including spur to summit
From St. Jeanette (a ten-minute drive from Vence), the trail ascends over the crag towering directly above the village. The summit overlooks a big swath of the Cote d’Azur.

Balcon du Loup
5- to 6.5-hour loop gaining 800 m (2624 ft)
After climbing above the village of Pont du Loup, the trail follows an ancient aqueduct traversing a valley wall. It allows you to hike comfortably and safely along sheer cliffs. You’ll also proceed through eight, long, dark tunnels, so don’t forget your headlamp.  The hike ends with a long, steep, switchbacking descent of Pic de Courmettes on a paved road.

Plateau de Calern
4-hour circuit gaining 250 m (820 ft)
Start near the Obervatoire du CERGA, northwest of Gourdon. Panoramic views are constant. Mt. Cheiron dominates the inland horizon. En route you’ll often pass remnants of ancient civilization, including wells, agricultural plots and, of course, walls.

Gorges de la Vesubie
4- to 5-hour round trip gaining 700 m (2296 ft)
This astounding trail is the one we’d recommend if you had but one day to hike near the Cote d’Azur. It’s an ancient mule path (much of it cobbled) allowing a highline traverse of the soaring, nearly vertical, 800-m (2624-ft) gorge wall between two villages: Le Cros d’Utelle and Utelle. Start at the tranquil hamlet of Le Cros d’Utelle. After a brief ascent, you’ll generally contour all the way to the slightly larger settlement of Utelle. A circuit is possible, but it entails significant elevation loss (which you must regain) and affords little new scenery; better to hike out and back. Afterward, drive road D19, on the gorge’s opposite wall, between St. Jean la Riviere and Levens. The road is an engineering marvel allowing you to fully appreciate the trail you just completed. We frequently stopped the car, got out, and stared in awe. If we hadn’t just hiked there, we wouldn’t believe it possible.

Mt. Lion
4- to 5-hour circuit gaining 450 m (1476 ft)
From the village of Gillette, high above the Var River Valley, hike around Mt. Lion. Time permitting, follow a short spur to the 1049-m (3441-ft) summit. Scenic highlights include a close perspective of 1550-m (5084-ft) Mt. Vial and an aerial view of the Esteron Valley. Before or after the hike, visit the perched village of Bonson.

Baou de l’Arc
3- to 4-hour loop gaining 630 m (2066 ft)
After sauntering through the meticulously maintained, ancient village of Cuebris, you’ll ascend past an impressive waterfall and top out on a lofty crag. On the descent, you’ll hop a stream just above where it careens into a defile and over a cliff. Just before returning to the village, you’ll cross a bridge over a creek roaring through a chasm. From Vence, the quickest way to reach Cuebris is via the N202 highway in the Var Valley, then the D17 through the lovely villages of Gillette and Roquesteron. After the hike, take the long way back to Vence by driving the D1 through the perched villages of Consegudes, Ferres, and Bouyon. Proceed southwest to Coursegoules, then follow the D2 back to Vence.

Brec d’Utelle
4- to 4.5-hour round trip gaining 810 m (2657 ft)
Many of the roads in the mountains of France are mind boggling, like this smoothly-paved lane climbing from the bottom of Vesubie Gorge all the way to the perched village of Utelle at 800 m (2624 ft). And the trails continuing beyond these French roads tend to be equally marvelous, like this one leading to a peaklet on the edge of the gorge. Views extend into the burly mountains of Parc National du Mercantour.

Mt. Cheiron
8- to 9-hour loop gaining 800 m (2624 ft)
Rising 1778 m (5832 ft), Mt. Cheiron is the highest Cote d’Azur peak within 30 km (19 mi) of the sea. Beneath the mountain’s south face are two quaint villages— Coursegoules and Greoleries—where you’ll find trails ascending to Cheiron’s summit ridge. There’s also a trail along the mountain’s 5-km (3 mi) spine, and a trail linking the villages, so it’s possible to hike Cheiron as a loop. Midwinter, however, the peak will likely retain too much snow to allow easy striding. If so, consider a short, three-hour roundtrip starting in Coursegoules at 1020 m (3346 ft) and gaining 480 m (1574 ft) to the ridgecrest at 1424 m (4671 ft).

Cap Ferrat
2-hour loop with negligible elevation gain
After ascending mountains or contending with chilly weather, this often-sunny seaside walk can be a welcome change. Start in Beaulieu sur Mer (immediately northeast of Nice) and follow the coastal path around Cap Ferrat. You’ll often be walking within a few meters of ocean swells crashing on the rocks. Just above, you’ll glimpse the massive holiday mansions of the obscenely wealthy. Be thankful France has a socially-minded government that keeps paths like this open to the public rather than allowing the local moguls to extend fences into the water. Two other coastal walks worth considering are at Cap d’Antibes and Cap d’Ail.

*A “head drop” is a pro wrestling move causing the victim to be dropped on his head, often resulting in an actual (as opposed to fake) injury, such as a concussion or even a broken neck. The intention is for the full force of the move to be absorbed in the victim’s upper back and shoulders, but a head drop always involves legitimate risk.

**A “splash” is any move involving a very large wrestler dropping his full weight across the body of a smaller opponent. It was originated by Big Daddy, a 1970s British pro wrestler whose signature move was the “Daddy Splash.”

***A “tap out” is when a wrestler taps on the mat to acknowledge submission. It means he is giving up due to the unbearable pain his opponent is inflicting on him.

How do I know this? I recently consulted the Walk the Earth Institute. Membership in this highly exclusive think tank is limited to me and my wife, photographer Kathy Copeland.

Both of us are self-appointed experts on everything to do with foot travel, and our methods are rigourously scientific: if we agree, it must be so.

At the Institute’s last convention—yesterday’s hike in the Serra de Tramuntana Mountains of Mallorca—I said “This is one of the most amazing trails we’ve ever hiked.”

Kathy enthusiastically agreed, just as I had agreed with her when she said something similar the day before. And this exclamation/affirmation banter has been a daily occurrence since our first hike on Mallorca a couple weeks ago.

So it’s unanimous and therefore indisputable: Mallorca is one of the world’s supreme winter hiking destinations.

Mallorca is best known as the Spanish isle where Europeans beach themselves for sun-and-sand therapy. Long swaths of the Mallorcan coastline are horrific. Not just overdeveloped but badly developed: a soul-crushing wall of towering, tasteless, tacky hotels and apartments.

The capitol, Palma de Mallorca, has a handsome, historic center. Wrapped around it, however, is an obese belly of crass commercialism where traffic moves like sludge and finding a parking spot is akin to winning the lottery. Fortunately the airport is well outside the city, enabling you to immediately veer into the heart of the island.

But Mallorca is not big. And most of its 3,638 sq km (1,405 sq mi) is not dramatic but merely undulating or simply flat. Pretty? Yes. Fill-your-camera-card gorgeous? No. Though agriculture is prevalent (olives, almonds, oranges, tangerines, lemons), and the remaining, historic wind-pumps are romantic monuments, the island feels urban. It’s peppered with towns and small cities, most of which are bland by French or Italian standards.

Mallorca is also strewn with motorways and roads that are in constant use by a population that seems to be in perpetual motion. The motorways are world-class. All the other roads are smoothly paved but alarmingly narrow—even when bordered on both sides by level farmland. Plus they’re shoulder-less, with abrupt edges. If you swerve 20 cm (8 in) too far (and you must swerve frequently to avoid colliding with these aggressive, road-hog Mallorcans) you’ll plunge. You’ll likely total your vehicle. You might need an ambulance. Definitely pay for the full insurance option when you rent a car here.*

“Narrow” is a petty criticism, however, given the sensational terrain these roads traverse on the island’s mountainous northwest coast. This is the Serra de Tramuntana. And here, Mallorcan roads are marvels of engineering prowess. So what if you have to slow down to cede the road to oncoming drivers? Slow is essential to appreciate the phenomenon of 1400-m (4600-ft) peaks rising directly from the Mediterranean, and the spectacle, the seeming miracle, of exquisitely paved roads switchbacking from sea to summit.

After hiking in the Serra de Tramuntana daily for nearly two weeks, we’re in awe. The stature of this range, given that it rockets skyward from the surf, is difficult to comprehend. Imagine seaside French Alps. Paved access to Tramuntana trailheads is luxurious. Imagine the Canadian Rockies laced with high-altitude roads. Ancient trails in the Tramuntana allow easy hiking in rugged, vertical terrain that would otherwise require scrambling or climbing. Imagine Patagonia with an extensive network of trails—signed and mapped.

As much as we loved Spain’s Costa Blanca range (see previous posting), we’ve been even more impressed by the Tramuntana, which resemble the Costa Blanca’s major peaks (Puig Campagna, Serra Bernia, Sanchet, Montgo) crushed together into a great massif and pushed out to the beach at Benidorm. To see the Tramuntana, go to the photos/videos page of our website. Click on Spain, then skip to photos 53 through 89.

The Tramuntana, however, occupies only a portion of a relatively small isle, so dedicated hikers can thoroughly sample the range in about two weeks—even with a few rain-enforced rest days. Ideally, devote a month to the Costa Blanca and the Tramuntana. Both are too hot to hike May through October. Come in December, January or February. Winter in Alicante Province (the mainland region comprising the Costa Blanca) and on Mallorca is sufficiently mild for comfortable hiking.

It does rain that time of year, however, and some days will be very windy. Daytime high temperatures at 200 m (656 ft) above sea level will probably average 12°C (54°F). At mountain elevations, daytime high temperatures will rarely exceed 10°C (50°F). On Mallorca, the humidity always has a chilling effect in winter. Hope for sun and warmth. You’ll get it occasionally. But be prepared for cloudy, cool weather, because you’ll surely get that too. From mid-January to early February we hiked one day in shorts, a few days in lightweight long pants, and most days in Schoeller-fabric pants. Our toques (wool beanies), neck gaiters, and windproof gloves were occasionally necessary, particularly when were still hiking at sunset (about 6 p.m.).

We rarely encountered other hikers, even on the trails near Deia, Valldemossa and Soller—the island’s most beautiful and popular towns. That’s another advantage of hiking here in winter: serenity. Mallorca is inundated with tourists the rest of the year. Accommodation is substantially less expensive in winter, too.

We were lucky. We stayed at Finca Vista Levante. Go to http://www.ownersdirect.co.uk/balearics/B4090.htm for photos and details. Our hosts, Brian and Inga Drewitt, are paragons of hospitality. Both are constantly beaming with positive expectancy. They’re among the happiest, most good natured people we’ve ever met. And their guest house is very comfortable. By the time we left, we felt Brian and Inga were our relatives who’d retired on Mallorca. Though it’s neither in nor near the Tramuntana, Vista Levante allows reasonably easy access to the entire range. It’s outside Santa Margalida, surrounded by agricultural land, so it’s peaceful. You can reach Brian at <brian.drewitt@arcor.de>. You’ll find him a lively and helpful correspondent.

Though the signposted GR (Grand Randonee) 221 runs the length of the Tramuntana—from the southeast end of the island, to Pollença in the northwest—only portions of it afford superb trekking. The over-hyped section of the GR between Pollença and the famous monastery at Lluc, for example, was historically important but will severely test your patience where it skulks in dark forest and lingers beside a paved road. So don’t assume the GR obviates trail research.

Aim for the big summits on clear-sky days. Hike the premier sections of the GR 221 when the weather is less favourable. See our list of suggestions below. Before leaving home, buy and study the 1:25,000 maps published by Editorial Alpina. If you’ll be hiking on Mallorca ten days or less, get only Tramuntana Nord and Tramuntana Central. For a longer stay, also get Tramuntana Sud. The scale of these maps makes them much more accurate than the 1:40,000 Mallorca North & Mountains Tour & Trail map published by Discovery Walking Guides. Check mallorca-camins.info for updates on trail improvements and closures.

Here are some of the hikes we enthusiastically recommend. These brief notes are intended only to motivate and orient you. You’ll need a map, and perhaps a guidebook, before you begin hiking.

Cami de s’Arxiduc
14-km (8.7-mi) loop / 530 m (1740 ft) gain / 5 hours
An archduke commissioned the construction of this astonishing bridal path so he could admire the scenery from the edge of sheer cliffs rising 900 m (2952 ft) from the sea.

Ascend from Valldemossa to Mirador de Ses Puntes, then follow the archduke’s path to 931-m (3054-ft) Puig Caragoli. From the cairned junction, you can attempt to summit nearby 1062-m (3483-ft) Teix, but the stile allowing hikers to surmount a high stone wall might be gated and locked. (This is a nuisance you’ll sometimes encounter on Mallorca, where trails often cross private land.) Descend the old road from Font d’es Polls, through Cairats Valley, back to Valldemossa.

Puig de Massanella
15-km (9.3-mi) loop / 860 m (2820 ft) gain / 6 hours
Start on the unpaved road just south of the petrol station near the Lluc junction. Ascend to Comafreda, where the land owner’s gatekeeper will probably be there to demand a usurious fee. Pay it, so you can complete a beautiful loop over the mountain. A relatively easy ascent leads to Masanella’s 1392-m (4566-ft) summit.

Hikers confident on steep, loose rock will want to descend the cairned, southwest ridge. Head for the obvious trail in the valley. Ascend to 1205-m (3952-ft) Coll de’s Prat, the island’s highest pass. At the signed junction with the GR 221, go toward Galileu and Lluc. Descend a broad, switchbacking, stone trail to the highway. Then turn right and walk 2 km (1.2 mi) back, past the petrol station, to your vehicle.

Barranc de Biniaraix
12 km (7.4 mi) round trip / 800 m (2625 ft) gain / 6 to 7 hours
Start just east of Soller, in the charming village of Biniaraix. Hike the ancient, cobbled, streamside, mule path through Barranc de Biniaraix. (A “barranc” is a canyon.) The time, labour and skill that the original inhabitants invested to create terraced olive groves here make this craggy niche a wonder to behold. You look up, see cliffs, and think “this trail can’t continue,” but it does, all the way to the summits above.

At L’Ofre farm, follow a rough, bouldery path through forest to a junction in Coll de L’Ofre. Do not continue east on the dirt road descending to Cuber Reservoir, visible ahead. About 15 meters from the trail sign, look for a feint trail veering right (south). In 30 m it broadens to road width. Ascend through forest southeast to Coll des Cards.

The tourist hiking brochure suggests you resume ascending L’Ofre (right) whose summit ridge is bushy and unappealing. Instead, go left (east) up L’Ofre’s sister summit: 1067-m (3500-ft) Franguera. It’s bare limestone, allowing you to enjoy a freelancing ascent with constant views. Sporadic cairns offer guidance but are not necessary. Mallorca’s highest mountain, Puig Major, rises from the far side of Cuber Reservoir and dominates the view northeast. Tossals and Tossals Verds are east. Much of Mallorca is within view. Return to Biniaraix the way you came and appreciate the barranc again.

Torre de na Seca
8 km (5 mi) round trip / 500 m (1640 ft) gain / 4 hours
From C-710, between Lluc and Gorg Blau, just east of the tunnel, drive spectacularly serpentine Road 214 down to Cala Tuent. This is where the ancient, stone path to sa Costera begins. Follow it, contouring around the bay, then ascend an old road to Col de Biniamar. Look for the cairned trail ascending right (west, then north) to the stone tower of Torre de na Seca. The small summit grants distant views along the rugged coast.

Mortitx Gorge and Rafal D’Ariant
11-km (6.8-mi) loop / 780 m (2560 ft) gain / 6 to 8 hours
You must be a confident scrambler and skilled at cross-country navigation to attempt this exciting journey through one of Mallorca’s wildest, roughest backcountry areas. You’ll descend a steep, bouldery gorge nearly to the sea. From Rafal D’Ariant you’ll ascend an ancient trail that soon deteriorates to a cairned, blazed route. You must then traverse gorgeous but complex (i.e. potentially disorienting) terrain back to Mortitx. There are many criteria by which to judge a hike. We give this one five stars for “exhilaration.”

Between Lluc and Pollença, park at the Mortitx vineyard gate. Follow the unpaved road down to the vineyard, fork right and continue beyond. In about 25 minutes look for a route veering right (northeast). It’s marked by a cairn and a few red paint daubs on boulders. After briefly winding across a level, grassy, boulder-studded flat, the route plunges into Mortitx Gorge.

The sometimes scrambling descent leads, in about two hours, to a pool that blocks passage. Bear right here and ascend on loose rock, then through tall grass. Where the grade levels, look for a cairned path. It leads to the ruins of what was once a shepherds’ hut. But once the hut is visible, well before you reach it, slow down. Look carefully for a cairned-but-easy-to-miss, right fork that immediately begins ascending toward what, at first glance, might appear to be an impassable wall but actually affords a gradual, ramping exit up and out of the barranc. The path soon broadens into a well constructed, ancient trail—supposedly a smugglers’ path.

Locating this exit point tested our ability to read the land, decipher an inadequate map, and quickly make vital decisions a mere one hour before sunset. Should we return via the barranc? It was challenging but familiar, because we’d just descended it. Or should we attempt to continue navigating the loop return?

The barranc would require a two-hour ascent, so we’d spend half that time in the dark, wearing headlamps. We knew the rest of the loop would be a route-finding puzzle, but we were confident the terrain would be less physically demanding than the barranc, so we could hike faster and probably reach the vineyard before dark. We also wanted to see what was up there.

The longer it took us to find the smugglers‘ path, the more the pressure mounted. It seemed we were wasting our precious remaining daylight on a futile search. We did find it, however, and we were able to navigate the entire loop at high speed. We passed the vineyard with a little time to spare. We reached our car before dusk.

We tell you this so you won’t make the mistake we made. We started this loop way too late in the day (after 1 p.m.), which forced us into a potentially dangerous predicament at the bottom of the barranc. Our excuse is that our absurdly vague and inaccurate guidebook did not describe the severity of the terrain. We urge you to start by 10 a.m. so you’ll have plenty of time.

We’re very glad we completed the loop. It’s a fascinating tour of limestone crags and ridges—a swath of the original, untouched Mallorca.

Mortitx to Coll des Vent
11 km (6.8 mi) round trip / 492 m (1615 ft) gain / 3 hours
This a road, much of it paved. Yet you’ll encounter no vehicle traffic, because it’s gated year-round. And the final stretch is closed even to foot travel between February 1 and July 1, because, according to the sign, this is sensitive black-vulture habitat. “Then why build a road here?” we wonder. Whatever the reason, it was no doubt very compelling, because this is tumultuous terrain. Building the road must have been hugely expensive. All we know is that it accesses scenery as magnificent and uniquely Mallorcan as any on the island. And because it’s a road, the hiking requires no more effort or ability than do the steep sidewalks of San Francisco.

Between Lluc and Pollença, park at the Mortitx vineyard gate. Follow the unpaved road down to the vineyard, fork right and continue beyond. Stay on the road. At a fork, bear right to cross the dam retaining a deep, crystalline, spring-fed pool. At the next fork, ascend left where right descends to a rifugio.

Proceed on the road up and over 502-m (1647-ft) Coll des Vent, then down to 410 m (1345 ft) where the road ends in a large, cleared field at Les Basses. The field itself is utterly anticlimactic, but it’s not a destination. The reason to hike all the way to road’s end is to see as much of the national-park-quality scenery as possible.

Puig Tomir
9 km (5.6 mi) round trip / 570 m (1870 ft) gain / 4 hours
Tomir’s 1103-m (3618-ft) summit offers a panoramic view of bays, peninsulas, and the eastern end of the Tramuntana. The initial ascent is on a gated road. The upper ascent is on solid limestone. This is one of easiest peaks to surmount on Mallorca. After passing it numerous times while driving west from Pollença to Lluc, we couldn’t resist the friendly, “Come on up!” invitation it seems to extend.

Tossal Verds
12-km (7.4-mi) loop / 470 m (1542 ft) gain / 5 to 6 hours
From CV-710, beside Cuber Reservoir, this trail circles 1047-m (3434-ft) Es Tossals and 1097-m (3598-ft) Tossals Verds. Initially follow the service road on the east side of the reservoir. At its southernmost point, descend 450 m (1476 ft) through the gorge beneath the dam.

The rough route follows an old canaleta (water conduit) down to terraced orchards. From there, ascend to the substantial Rifugio Tossals Verds. Follow signs for the GR 221 to Coll d’es Colloms on the east side of Tossals Verds. Then, on its north side, the trail follows another canaleta west, back to Cuber Reservoir.

Passing the Rifugio Tossals Verds on this engaging and varied loop, a girl of about seven years old asked us “Donde va?” At first we didn’t understand. But by the time she followed us up to the next switchback, we realized she was asking, “Where are you going?” So we said, “Lago Cuber.” Then she said, “Esta bien,” and queried “Por que?” We liked that she was so open and curious, so Kathy dug into our paltry Spanish and said, “Es muy divertido, y interesante, y buen ejercicio.” “Comprenda?” Craig asked. She and her brother smiled and nodded. So off we went with their unspoken but very evident blessings.

*Full insurance with Gold Car, the Spanish rental-car company we recommend, will even cover the cost of replacing the ignition key, should you lose it. I know this because in an absent-minded moment I (Craig) dropped the key to our chili-red Citroen C30 into the marina at Palma de Mallorca. I’d previously never lost a car key—ever, anywhere. And wow, are remote-entry keys expensive. It cost 150 Euro ($225 USD) to replace ours. I later imagined how I might retrieve the key and earn back the replacement fee: go fishing with a magnet. But our time was limited. We were busy hiking. Where was I going to find a magnet? I thought no more of it, until one evening after hiking all day, Kath and I were strolling through the town of Soller. We passed a large hardware store. She said, “Maybe they have a magnet.” I walked in and met a clerk who spoke excellent English—a rare skill among Mallorcans. I humbly told him my story. He lit up. “Yes, we have a strong magnet!” he said. This magnet was huge, at least 10 kg (22 lb). It had been in the store for 30 years and was currently employed as the door stop. He generously offered to loan it to me, along with a 20-m (66-ft) rope, in return for a 50 Euro ($75 CDN) refundable deposit. The serendipity was too miraculous to ignore. So at 9 p.m. Kath and I drove across the island, far out of our way, into the traffic of Palma. I spent an hour dredging the marina precisely where I’d dropped the car key. Nada. It remains in the muck, 15 m (50 ft) below the dock. But we gained from the experience. We met Joseph, the muy sympatico clerk at Bernat, the hardware store (ferreteria) in Soller.

Last week, in mid-January, we were hiking a long, slender ridge in Spain’s Costa Blanca Mountains. Spiny bushes clawed at our calves. We saw ancient villages far below, each looking as if it were pinned to the earth by its dominating church tower. And in contrast to the corrugated topography, the horizon was a straight line formed by the Mediterranean Sea. It all seemed so exotic we wondered how we got there.

But we knew the answer. It’s because we share a passion for mountains that runs deeper than conscious thought. We each felt it long before we met. These independent forces within us grew stronger when we and they merged. Our honeymoon backpacking trip in the Colorado Rockies inaugurated a shared life of wilderness exploration. Ever since, we’ve been researching and traveling to the world’s most spectacular vertical terrain. Gradually our work and our passion also merged. Recently this has allowed us the flexibility to seek mountains we can hike in winter, when our home range, the Canadian Rockies, is frigid and laden with snow.

So here we are, among peaks and canyons appreciated only as the backdrop for Europe’s most popular beach-resort cities. We’re convinced they deserve to be equally famous as a refuge for hikers fleeing winter. We realize that probing the Costa Blanca Mountains has been an essential leg in our endless journey: a devotional practice we think of as “the way of the hiker.”

For five weeks, we’ve confined our forays to an 80-square-km (31-square-mi) radius. It’s rare for us to be content on such a short tether. But the Costa Blanca Mountain scenery continually surprises and engages us. Beautifully engineered, smoothly paved roads easing into the barrancos (canyons) and switchbacking up the tossals and puigs (summits) grant vehicle access everywhere we want to hike. And hiking is nearly always possible thanks to a profusion of routes, paths, ancient trails and unpaved roads.

In a range topping out at 1559 m (5115 ft), the trailheads are remarkably high, often between 400 and 800 m (1312 and 2625 ft)  And the trails themselves are marvels. They enable us to stride where we’re astounded not only by what we see but by the fact we’re able to walk there. In North America, negotiating terrain this steep and rugged usually necessitates skill and courage and makes us yearn for James Bond jetpacks. Here—miraculously—we’re simply walking.

Compared to North American ranges, another distinguishing trait of Spain’s Costa Blanca Mountains is that civilization is always evident, which enriches the hiking experience. Stone terraces and walls, ranging from 1,000 to 6,000 years old, are everywhere. We often pass the ruins of ancient, stone fincas (farmhouses) and walk through groves of olives or almonds. Occasionally we skirt 20th century homes built in traditional style, perched on promontories commanding telescope-worthy views.

The Costa Blanca Mountains, as the name implies, rise sharply from the shore. They’re on a blunt peninsula, about two hours’ drive south of Valencia, inland from Denia and Benidorm. The latter is a characterless mass of high-rise apartments and hotels that makes Las Vegas seem charming. But if you can do what for most people is unthinkable—turn your back on the sea, the sand, and all that cement—you’ll soon be driving among vast citrus farms and through quaint villages.

In January, the tangerines, oranges, lemons and grapefruit are ripe. Yes, we became fruit banditos. But in our defense, we were careful not to prey on only one farmer. We stopped here and there, picking only enough to fill our pockets. According to local custom, we spat seeds and tossed peels out the windows while we drove. The fragrance of a fresh, Spanish tangerine is sublime. The taste is euphoria inducing. And flinging organic refuse feels liberating.

Winter, by the way, is the only time to hike here. In summer, the 40°C (104°F) heat makes hiking not just uncomfortable but muy peligroso (very dangerous). In winter, you can expect daytime temperatures to range from 6 to 22°C (43 to 72°F). Cloudy days are common, but rain is scarce. This winter was Europe’s harshest in decades. Snowfall in Great Britain was so heavy and widespread, on satellite maps the country appeared solid white. Yet we hiked nearly every day in the Costa Blanca Mountains. Twice we did it in shorts. Once we encountered a patina of snow. Occasionally we were buffeted by strong, gusty winds. Mostly the ground was dry underfoot, the weather agreeably warm.

Never are the Costa Blanca Mountains crowded, but in winter you’ll feel they’re your private reserve. Usually we encountered no one. The tranquility was glorious. On weekends and holidays, we shared the popular trails with others: some locals, several expat Brits, a few Germans or Dutch. We met one Canadian couple who’ve been coming here to hike every winter for years. We were the second and third Canadians they’d ever crossed paths with in the Costa Blanca Mountains.

Affordable accommodation is another winter advantage. Summer is when Costa Blanca rentals are booked out and rates soar. Of course, the closer you are to the water, the higher the price. Inland is undesirable to most people but superior if you’re here to hike. You’ll be in or near an authentic Spanish village, far from the crowds, traffic, and commercial onslaught, and much closer to the trailheads. Keep elevation in mind, however. You want to stay where the nights are not too chilly. That means at or below about 200 m (656 ft).

We rented the lower portion of a home in Orbeta, a neighbourhood on the edge of Orba. We hesitate to recommend it, however, because we want it to be available when we return, because we’re definitely returning.

Oh, alright. Here you go. The owners are Lesley and Ron Griffin. Their email address is <lr.griffin@terra.es>. Their phone number is 34 965 583 494. They’re kind, gracious hosts. Their modern, immaculate apartment is ideal for two people: a fully equipped kitchen, a spacious living room with a mountain view, one bedroom, an elegant bathroom, and a private terrace above an almond grove. Visit http://www.ownersdirect.co.uk/spain/s10840.htm for photos and details.

So, precisely where in the Costa Blanca Mountains should you point your boots? We used three hiking guidebooks. All were exasperating. Not just bad, but horrific. We would have flung them off a cliff in a screaming rage if we didn’t have the ability, born of experience, to read mountains and maps. The criminally inadequate books we urge you not to purchase are Costa Blanca Mountain Walks by Bob Stansfield (Cicerone); Costa Blanca: 50 Walks by Gill Round (Rother); and Costa Blanca by John and Christine Oldfield (Sunflower). They’re outdated. The writing is awkward, ambiguous, full of assumptions that readers cannot decipher. They give no compass directions, relying instead on “left” and “right,” and rarely state elevations. They’re detailed about frivolous matters, and vague when detail is critical. None gives complete, precise directions to the trailheads.

Europe is a bird’s nest of roads and tracks. So the primary reason you need a hiking guidebook here is to help you find the trailheads. Using the Cicerone, Rother, or Sunflower books, each time we arrived within 500 m (547 yd) of where they seemed to say a hike should begin, we’d have to play Sherlock for another 30 minutes to determine the most efficient way to strike out toward our objective. A guidebook should save you from having to ferret out this essential information. Actually, a guidebook should go beyond accurate detail. It should inspire you. But the Cicerone, Rother, and Sunflower books are not guides. They’re suggestion books. Buy maps instead.

Petrol stations, including the one in Orba, sell 1: 20 000 topo maps. You’ll want “Terra Ferma: Marina Baixa Serra d’Aitana” for the west half of the Costa Blanca Mountains, and “Marina Alta Serra de Bernia” for the east. With a compass, the patience and confidence to occasionally suss out a meager trail, and the ability to recognize landforms and stay oriented, you’ll have a great time here.

If you’re a keen hiker, plan a three-week trip to the Costa Blanca Mountains. We were there five weeks and would gladly have stayed longer. Below are the hikes we enjoyed most and enthusiastically recommend. For now, all we can offer is a brief summary of each. Use this info to locate the trails on the topo maps mentioned above. (You might also find maps online.) To see photos of these hikes, go to the Photos/Videos section of our website and click on Spain.

Mozarabic trail – Val de Laguart
4.5-hr loop / 14 km (8.4 mi) / gain 800 m (2625 ft)  / highpoint 600 m (1968 ft)
West of Orba, drive CV 721 to Fleix (438 m / 1437 ft). Find the trailhead sign in front of the school. A Moorish trail constructed 500 years ago switchbacks gently into the canyons 250 m (820 ft) below. The loop, which also crosses Barranco del Infierno, entails three sharp descents and ascents.

Serra Bernia
4-hr loop / 8.5 km (5.3 mi) / gain 315 m (1033 ft) / highpoint 850 m (2790 ft)
From CV 750 north of Jalon, take the first right onto CV 749 (signed for Pinos). Drive the fascinating, serpentine road 8 km to Pinos. Continue ascending to Casas de Bernia (625 m / 2050 ft). A good trail circles the ridge, contouring just below the sheer cliffs of this massif. Like Montgo, Bernia is frequently visible and recognizable throughout the Costa Blanca region.

Montgo
5-hr loop / 15 km (9.3 mi) / gain 560 m (1837 ft) / highpoint 752 m (2467 ft)
From Ondara, drive to Denia. Continue through the commercal zone to Placa Jaume I. Turn right and ascend to the Ermita de San Juan, where the national-park entrance is signed. The sheer walls of the isolated Montgo massif rise directly from the sea. This and Bernia are the area’s most popular hikes.

Serra del Penyal – Caballo Verde Ridge
5- to 6-hr loop / 15 km (9.3 mi) / gain 560 m (1837 ft) / highpoint 847 m (2625 ft)
West of Orba, drive CV 718 to Fleix, then continue to Benimaurell (532 m / 1745 ft). It’s the last and highest village in the beautiful Val de Laguart. A Mozarabic trail ascends through terraced orchards to the ridgecrest. Here, a narrow but easy-to-follow trail follows the crest east to Penya Alt and Penya Roch. Villages are visible below both sides of the ridge. Midway along, you can peer into the Barranco del Infierno and see far up the Mediterranean coast.

Barranca Almadich
5- to 6-hr loop / 15 km (9.3 mi) / gain 560 m (1837 ft) / highpoint 800 m (2625 ft)
Drive CV 720 to Benigembla, between Orba and Parcent. Having tried two access roads, we think the best way to begin the loop is from the Mirabo road, west of the bridge. A trail leads south toward Cocoli summit. From the head of the gorge, pick up a trail leading 5 km along the top edge of Almadich Canyon’s 300-m cliffs. It eventually descends past a communications tower to Benigembla.

Penal Gros – Serra de la Forado
3.5-hr loop + 1 hour viewing ruins / 8 km (5 mi) / gain 220 m (722 ft) / highpoint 854 m
From the village of Alcala de la Jovada, walk east to the 13th century Moorish village of L’Atzuvieta. Continue following the unpaved road through terraces toward desolate Forado ridge. Ascend to, then follow the ridgecrest. Val de Gallinera is visible below. Near the summit of Penal Gros, the ruins of an ancient castle are visible on the mountain’s far slope.

Monte Ponoch
5-hr circuit / 12 km (7.5 mi) / gain 730 m (2395 ft) / highpoint 1181 m (3875 ft)
Start 6 km north of Finestrat (255 m / 837 ft). Initially hike to Collado de Pouet, below the southwest side of 1410-m (4625-ft) Puig Campagna. The gradual ascent of Ponoch continues, affording views of nearby Sanchet and ultimately granting an aerial view of the coast.

Pena Divino
3.5- to 5-hr round trip / 14 km (8.7 mi) / gain 207 m (680 ft) / highpoint 1157 m (3796 ft)
From Sella, drive 5 km north on CV 770. Immediately before a bridge, turn right onto a decaying-but-still-paved road. Continue 6.5 km to road’s end at Font Pouet Alemany (950 m / 3117 ft). Pena Divino, a 1-hr round-trip hike, affords a vast panorama. It also allows you to survey three major Costa Blanca peaks at close range: Sanchet, Ponoch, and Puig Campagna. Continue walking the unpaved road 4 km to crest the summit ridge of Mt. Aitana (highest peak in the range) and overlook the Guadalest Valley.

Bocairent – Cami de L’Escaleta
3-hr circuit / 12 km (7.5 mi) / gain 280 m (918 ft) / highpoint 675 m (2215 ft)
This historic mule trail once served the textile factories of Bocairent—a medieval town that in the 13th century had 80 looms working full time. It descends into a ravine, climbs over two minor summits, then returns to the village.

Barranco de Cau
3.5-hour loop / 9 km (5.5 mi) / gain 375 m (1230 ft) / highpoint 600 m (1968 ft)
Just east of Jalon, on CV749, across from the garden center, turn south on Camino Partido Cota. Follow it 0.9 km to an unpaved parking area at 225 m (738 ft). On foot, continue up Camino Partido Cota on what appears to be a driveway. Just beyond the house (right), proceed onto a trail. Near the mouth of Barranco de Cau, the trail ascends past a ruin. It soon becomes a Mozarabic trail climbing to the high plain of Casas del Cau. The first peaklet is an excellent viewpoint and a worthy destination for a short, round trip. The loop continues across the plain to the head of the barranco, then gradually descends it back to where you started.